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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,750 Likes: 123
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,750 Likes: 123 |
OK. So, I have a kit from Brownells with shotgun beads I bought a few years ago and I would like to put them on a shotgun. Some of the beads say to use a #45 drill bit and the others say to use a #31 drill bit. So, I went out and bought them today. My problem is I need the taps. It says to use a 3X56 and a 6X48. No one around here has them, so I guess I will have to order them from Brownells, too. I notice in their catalog there are three types of taps- taper, plug and bottoming. So, which one(s) would I use to put on a front and a middle bead on a shotgun rib? Do I start out with the tapered and then once it is started, go to the bottoming? Should I buy and use all three? How is this done? I have used taps before but never putting a bead on a shotgun rib. A little advice, please. Thanks.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86 |
Here's "a little advice"
Take it to a qualified gunsmith before you screw it up.
yOur're quite welcome Jammy
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,205
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,205 |
JoE, that is the best advice that I have ever seen you offer!
Ole Cowboy
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,737 Likes: 55
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,737 Likes: 55 |
jOe's advise is the best if you have never done this before and have to ask these questions.
The largest bead would go near the muzzle end and naturally the small bead back, the exact place would be determined by the length of barrels. Normally you would use the starter (taper)tap, but since these holes are shallow, it will not start becasue of the long taper. You might have to use the bottoming tap to start and then you have to be careful and not thread it on an angle.
Since you have already bought them, have a gunsmith do the job or go buy the tapered beads and push them in.
David
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86 |
jAmmy's not thinking with his dip stick....
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12 |
Jimmy, this is a job that requires some "touch." If you don't have "touch," see above. If you do and/or the guns are not something devastating to make a mistake on, get all three taps. Get some 1/16" thick steel and practice before you try a gun. When you can put a tapped hole exactly where you want it on the practice material, try a cheap gun. You will need a drill press and you will need to make a "fixture" to hold the barrels steady. Don't try to hand hold the barrels while drilling or tapping. You must be able to just drill through the rib and not deeper or you will drill into barrel material; use the quill stop. Same for tapping and, if you jam the tap, you may well break it off in the hole. Few things are more maddening than a broken tap!! I strongly recommend you buy a spring loaded tap guide and use it with a tap handle that has a center drill hole on the top. That way, you can drill the hole in your drill press, remove the drill and install the guide in the chuck, and install the tap between the guide and the hole. This method assures a straight tap-to-hole alignment. Post back if this is not clear.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,750 Likes: 123
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,750 Likes: 123 |
Joe, I am sorry but I continue to have you on my ignore list so, like many others on here who have told me they have done the same thing- I can't see what you are saying. Sorry about that....... As far as my ability to do something like this folks, I spent six years doing bench work on cars and I used taps all the time. Plus I used them on my other job from time to time while I worked in maintenance on and off for thirty years. So, it would not be that hard for me to do this one at all. I do realize all the problems a tap can cause. But, as I said, I have been using taps and dies for 40 years. (Phew!! I didn't realize I was going to have to give a resume here) And the gun I intend to do it on isn't worth that much anyway. So, I just wanted to know exactly how this was done before I started. And thank you- I have noticed that the larger bead goes at the muzzle and the smaller one goes at the middle of the rib. Now- if we could start over and get someone's advice from someone who does it all the time? I would appreciate it. But thanks for all your concern. I really do appreciate it. (Boy!! If I had a nickel every time someone told me I couldn't do something over the past 60 years) Oh!! Sorry guys. I was just mumbling to myself.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
Try the plug, knowing that there is not a lot of depth available to start the threads. If you have any skill it's a no brainer. They also make drive in tapered beads. bill
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12 |
Jimmy, you can probably get away with the bottom tap only. However, since we are talking only a few $, I'd get both the plug and bottom tap. I assume you have a supply of good machining fluid. I don't see any reason for you not to do it.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,737 Likes: 55
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,737 Likes: 55 |
Jimmy, not to be sarcastic, but it is the way you stated your words, example; "Do I start out with the tapered and then once it is started, go to the bottoming? Should I buy and use all three? How is this done?"
You got answers from people that thought this is the first time doing this. You should also know that having all three taps in a set is the only way to go, even though you can't use all three in this application.
Also are you sure the sizes are 3-46, and 6-48, and not 3-56 and 6-40? That could be the reason no one has them.
David
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