doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Re-jointing actions by Ken Eversull

Relatively few guns which are off the face need a new pin. Re-jointing is a straightforward job for a good gunsmith but is common to see it messed up by a less skilled man. We re-joint/re-grip a lot of English guns. Addressing the hook and/ or the locking bolts is generally what is required.

Is Mr Eversull the gent. who advertises 'spray welding ' the hook? Or I think he may call it invisible repair?
I would be interested to know if he is doing a repair differently to the methods already discussed on this thread.

My insight into this debate can be compared by saying I would be disappointed if a garage fitted new pistons in my engine if the problem was worn bores !!!

Well, there you go, Steve. Dennis Potter, a well qualified shotgun smith, does not subscribe to the "replace the pin" doctrine. Apparently, at least you two are on my side, even though you discount customer knowledge.

"There is more than one way to skin a cat,... ....you don't still communicate by snail mail,.... do you?"

I'm not a gunsmithing expert, but CJ's first comment above rings true to my learings in machine shops and toolrooms I've worked in, and my personal beliefs pertaining to most anything, especially something being manufactured or fixed. His last comment makes me wonder about some ways I'm becoming entrenched like my old predecessors.

nial - this would work if the pin threads are of sufficiently smaller diameter. Obviously, you have to be able to get the sleeve onto the pin. This, is, however, just a better shim; a shim put onto the pin. Now, if you refit the hook to a slightly oversize pin sleeve, you have a new, properly fitted joint. The only issue with sleeves is to refit to the non-shimmed side. Welding puts down a "permanent shim" that is then refitted. Remachining a welded-up pin should be no problem as reaming/miling/fiing should be no problem for a welded-up hook. A glued-in shim can be a as hard or soft as you wish and can be fitted as above. The above pin shim could also be a sheet shim glued onto the pin.

Many ways to skin that cat!! The issue is figure out what is amiss within the joint and what will make the most efficient combination of economical, aesthetic, mechanically sound, and durable repair to the joint. Differing craftsmen may get to the same final point using differing methods.

In that my name has been mentioned, I'll cautiously, throw out my thoughts. I generally don't find the pin to be worn, the hook is. Because the pin is generally harder than the hook. Manny pins are case hardened in place, so most wear will occur on th hook. As to repair, it depend on the gun and the design. When a pin is removable, like a Purdey, and on a gun of this caliber, you probably should make a new oversize pin, engrave and harden it. On the vast majority of guns, removal of the pin and making any oversize pin with reengaving, etc is complicated. Generally replacing a pin means you will have to enlarge by reaming the hole in the action. And then the pin should be rehardened, which means rehardening the entire action I would think. In my experience, most lumps are of mild steel and can be welded up, the hook bored in proper location but still slightly forward to allow for file fitting, and this can be done without effecting the braze joint or rib solder. Properly done with a good weld this can show no signs of repair. Wit all this, the barrels should still be blacked down to the face of the action, as many times the action has moved a bit too. As was previously stated, there is more than one way to get the skin off the cat.

Dennis, thanks for mentioning the moving of the action, something most of us wouldn't even consider.

Tell me, is an action off face if its dead nuts with the forearm latched on,but when off,it shakes .002 thou???

I had another gun that was like that in both test conditions,sent it to a reputable man on this board,charged the money,fired the shots of 50 rnds,and basically back to where it was before the repair.
No lie,and I aint telling the name either.
[no it wasnt a solder shim neither.]

I recall Dr. Gaddy mentioning that Kirk Merrington (I think) was using a plasma spray deposition of a thin layer of metal, thus reducing the labor to refit.

Chuck you have shown yourself to be a tinkerer, Google Micro-tig welding, I believe you could learn that pretty easily. I've never performed low pressure or vacuum micro-spray welding. The safety and weld environment aspects are tough, so if someone has a shop doing it, let them.

Reading about them and doing them are two different things of course. Takes about 5 years of practice to get any good at any of them. Anyone doing either technique every day is worth their pay. Combining that with knowing why the joint is loose, is worth even more.
These are low deformation, low heat techniques that protect the base material. Perfect for old gun parts, old door hinges, classic cars, motorcycles, etc. Surface pitting can be filled too, but time is money. How far do you want to go?
Like any tool, correct choice of application is called "skill".

With so much internet chatter about looseness, I'm surprised more people don't study surface restoration more thoroughly. I'm beginning to theorize that much looseness is in the original design, and we miss-apply our vetting rules.

Welding under a loop is done before you have a morning coffee.