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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Would appreciate comments on the re-jointing work done by Ken Eversull. I have a Diamond grade Lindner Daly that needs a little TLC in that area. I know it's expensive but I'm looking for the highest quality work.


When an old man dies a library burns to the ground. (Old African proverb)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 528
Sidelock
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Joe, I believe that Ken and his method (whatever it exactly is) is the best in the business. He is not cheap, but he does offer near perfection. He did a full restoration on a Greener for me that has to be seen to be believed. It was far enough off the face to have served as a garden gate. He is also not the quickest, but you will enjoy talking to him, and he is a passionate about our sport.

Joined: Aug 2004
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Joined: Aug 2004
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He worked on a Grant sidelever SLE I owned and is now working on my HJ Hussey. He's seriously good.

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Sidelock
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I thought my Lindner was off face, but it turned out to be a worn locking bolt. I had to take the action completely apart - the locking bolt is the last thing to fall out. I then welded up and dressed down the worn part of the locking bolt that engages the underbite on the barrels. It was a long job, but proved to be very interesting - the inside of a Lindner is a real treat to behold!

Also - I determined that the gun was not "off-face" by pulling up on the barrels (as if closing it after it was closed) then trying to move them side to side. I used my stocking vise to do this, but it can be done in your hands. If you cannot move the barrels side to side after pulling up on them you have a locking lug issue. If they still move after pulling up it is a hinge pin / barrel hook problem.

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Sidelock
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Replace the hinge pin - that's how you put a gun back on the face, especially a top-quality gun.

Unless the gun has a fixed hinge pin (some do), every other solution is the wrong way to fix the problem, regardless of what the advertising copy says.

OWD

Last edited by obsessed-with-doubles; 07/22/09 09:07 AM.

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Sidelock
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OWD,
I must respectfully disagree. Del Whitman had to microweld and fit both the hook and locking bolt to properly put an old German double back on face. Sometimes you can get away with repairing just the hook but not always.
Phil

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CJO Offline
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There is more than one way to skin a cat,....sometimes changing a hinge pin is too drastic a measure, especially when the gap is slight or when one has to deal with re-engraving something that was done by an old master,...too many new tools and techniques can now be used to properly repair the old doubles,..things that one would have never thought possible 50 years ago can now be done to achieve perfection ,...even some of the purists have adopted them, they just won't tell you about it.
Blood letting and the pony express had their time,...now we have modern medicine and cell phones, you don't still communicate by snail mail,.... do you?

CJ


The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
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Sidelock
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Of the half dozen off face that I have had, only one was the Pin. The others were the locking bolts or lugs. I had all tig welded except the pin situation which was corrected with Brownells shim .002 stock

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Sidelock
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I respectfully disagree. As I understand it, working on the hook does not repair any wear that may have happened to the pin.

You have to address the pin and the hook to achieve a square fit all around.

You can shim or weld up the hook, but you'll never achieve the perfect fit that is one of the things that makes a fine double so fine.

OWD



Last edited by obsessed-with-doubles; 07/22/09 02:04 PM.

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CJO Offline
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I agree,...you must address the issue and repair the part that requires it,.....but you can also repair a hinge pin without outright replacing it

CJ


The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
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