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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 123
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 123 |
I am currently working on a wood extension and am having a problem.
I used a scrap piece of walnut off another gun that matches the stock well, attached it with 3/8" wooden dowels, wood glued it in place and then clamped the extension down so it was tight. After it dried, I reshaped the extension, sanding it down to an exact fit. I then wiskered the stock, stained it, sealed it, and filled the pore just and any minute gaps in the extension just as I would if I were filling the pores (using the sand in method).
Here is my problem. As I began to apply the final coats of finish (Tru-oil) everything looked perfect. The separation between the two pieces of wood looked like a thin line under a thin coat of glass -simply beautiful. But then, on the last coat, for some reason the stock swelled just enough to break the finish and I can barely catch a finger nail on it as I rub my finger across it. I re-sanded this side and started to apply the finish again, when this also began to happen on the other side (to a lesser degree, but still there nonetheless). The strange thing is, this is only happening on the sides of the stock. The heal and toe are still as smooth as silk.
I assume this is happening due to moisture in the air, the moisture in the stock, and the difference in density between the two woods, although both pieces are walnut. The swelling is almost unnoticeable unless you run your finger over it. You can barely feel it.
So, where did I go wrong?
David
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 737 Likes: 23
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 737 Likes: 23 |
Don't forget to seal the endgrain at the butt. If you don't, moisture can enter there and swell the extension.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,733 Likes: 52
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,733 Likes: 52 |
You didn't go wrong. Wood is always moving, and because of humidity and dis-similar wood grain and density this is what happens. There was a thread not to long ago about this same topic. I did the same thing you did. Mine the stock was cut 1 1/2" and a recoil pad and extension was put on. I hate recoil pads and especially the look of that one. So I used a piece of walnut and I only fastened it on with two long screws, no glue no dowels and finished it. This way, at some other time if I want I could find a better suited piece of figured walnut to match more closely.
Last edited by JDW; 02/08/09 05:23 PM.
David
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482 |
Would drilling out the center of the extension minimise the dimensional change?
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231 |
Perhaps try epoxy instead of wood glue.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,733 Likes: 52
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,733 Likes: 52 |
Would drilling out the center of the extension minimise the dimensional change? Maybe, maybe not. It all depends on how the grain lies in relationship to the wood. It could grow inwards, or shrink inwards or the other way around. As far as epoxy, I use Tite Bond 11 or 111 in a lot of wood working projects, the later being a more water proof/resistant type glue. I have purposely broken some glued up wood either end to end or edge to edge and have never had one break on the glue joint. Some expoxies are tinted and have a thicker consistancy then wood glues and you will see a marked difference in the joint.
David
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,116
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,116 |
David, Attached are a couple butt extension my brother crafted. Watching the process, he always has his moisture meter out checking the material. Depending on whether a permanent extension or removeable for further change in LOP or Pitch, it can be epoxied (not glue) or only screwed in. I've seen and used both and either proceedure results in a functional and solid buttplate. A piece of wood the size of an extension wouldn't have enough length in grain structure to twist and turn like a waterlogged rifle stock. Change in humidity might be enough to swell the wood cells at the juncture. Below: The radiused extension ( on a LC grade #1 20ga.)is partially complete with additional work being a scrimshaw grouse etching in the bone inlays, final carving of the ebony inlays, stock bent to fit, checkering, and hand rubbed finish. Standard extension is on a LC Ideal, not complete. Good luck. Lots of great guns can be put functionally and aesthetically back in the game. Randy
RMC
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,826 Likes: 12 |
David, that's a good question. The same thing has happened to me and a friend of mine more than once. Wish someone could say what the cure is. I've taken mine down twice, and although not as bad as yours, you can barely feel it with your finger. Paul
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 123
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 123 |
Thanks for all the responses. Sometimes, its good to know you are not alone.
I have let the stock sit inside the house and the surfaces are returning to where they once were. I can only notice a small 1/2" spot when I run my finger over the separation. I am going to finish the stock and the butt end completely and let it be.
RMC, those are beautiful butt extensions. Does you brother have a website?
thanks again,
d
David
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,116
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,116 |
David, thanks for asking. Glens site is (mccune-art.com) Site shows his talent, his passion is vintage SXS's.
RMC
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