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Forums10
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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,698
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,698 |
As you might guess Cody, I tend to looking Real close at whatever I'm interested in at the moment. All your line work flows with the lines of the piece and all scroll is period correct & works with the overall appearence. If only it was mine ! Congrats buddy, you da man . Ken
Ken Hurst
910-221-5288
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,522
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,522 |
Fred, the aqua fortis used on maple is not a problem with respect to metal corrosion later. I have rifle I built about 10 years ago which has shown no sign of corrosion to date. After you heat the wood stained with Aqua Fortis and get the color shift, the wood gets neutralized with baking soda solution (some use ammonia). Not sure that having dissolved all the iron possible in the original solution any significant acid content still present anyway. I have gone to the vinegar/iron lately just because it may be even more authentic. If it fails me I correct it with the alcohol based stains.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
One comment, without trying to go beyond my technical knowledge, but Aqua is water, Aqua Fortis is essentially "Strong Water". This was the old term used for Nitric acid & had nothing to do with having dissolved the iron in it. It was Aqua Fortis prior to the iron being being dissolved. Aqua Regia was "Royal Water" & was a mixture of Nitric & Hydrochloric acids & was so called because it would dissolve the "Royal Metals" IE Gold & Platinum. These words I believe are Latin derivitives.
Miller
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 327
Member
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Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 327 |
And how does that old rhyme go?
"Jimmy liked to drink
But he will drink no more
For what he thought was H2O
Was H2SO4"
Mike Doerner
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,246 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,246 Likes: 4 |
2-Piper is correct. Aqua Fortis is "strong water" in Latin and it refers to nitric acid, HNO3. The term has nothing to do with being reacted with iron or anything else for that matter. Nitric acid is highly regulated these days because of environmental and safety concerns although you could google it and find a lab supply house that will ship you a small quantity for stockmaking. Be sure to order the "technical grade" as apposed to the "reagent grade". You won't need reagent purity so why pay the premium to get it? Silvers
I AM SILVERS, NOT SLIVER = two different members. I'm in the northeast, the other member is in MT.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 32
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 32 |
WOW ..THANK YOU FOR ALL THE REPLYS.. WHAT DO YOU FELLAS THINK I SHOULD USE ..IRON OR STEELWOOL AND WILL THIS AFFECT THE COLOR...ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU FOR HELPING A NEWBIE OUT...GREG
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 32
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 32 |
WOW ..THANK YOU FOR ALL THE REPLYS.. WHAT DO YOU FELLAS THINK I SHOULD USE ..IRON OR STEELWOOL AND WILL THIS AFFECT THE COLOR...ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU FOR HELPING A NEWBIE OUT...GREG
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
Cody, good job on the Muzzleloader. I have Used
Nitric acid with steel wool dissolved in for several muzzleloaders. It is traditional and you get the right colors although some of the aniline or alcohol based dyes get close.
I also use it for Baker bluing solutions and Gaddys browning solutions. It is indispensable for us 19th Century Gunsmiths.
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