doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Ithaca.....what a surprise!

Picked up a Ithaca a while back for not too much. The grade is the floral design, is that what 1.5 grade is? Anyway....I finally got a few hours without a phone ringimg and decided to begin the cleaning. To my surprise this is the most dirtest gun I've ever had apart. Check it out!

OOOPS, forgot to ask. I have the gun disasembled all but the top lever. This particular Flues doesn't have the screw w/ slot in lever. How does the lever come out?
Thanks,

What number is stamped on the watertable? In mid-1915 that floral pattern was introduced on the Damascus barreled No. 1 1/2. Post WW-I it got steel barrels and by late 1919 the old No. 1 and 1 1/2 were combined as the new No. 1 with the floral engraving and fluid steel barrels.

Ser.#314xxx 1 over 12.
4 marked on each barrel. This is choke?

4&4 would be Full & Full.

How was the exterior of the frame?

Rob

4=Full
3=IM
2=M
1=IC
0=C

To me the suprise is that the gun worked with all that crud in it. Might be one ounce lighter when you are done.

I picked up a 20 ga. version of the same gun, same grade with two sets of barrels a few years ago. Use to be one of my favorite guns for quail and pen raised birds. Since been replaced by a pair of Lefever 20's, but this post might get the old girl out one more time. Always thought that hte engraving pattern was copied from a Specialty grade Smith or vica-versa. Same Art-Deco look. Not to complex, but still very interesting to look at at first glance.

The receiver has no finish and will clean up just oaky. Cause the engraving isn't as stong and crisp. Guess thats expected over this many years. Barrel also have hardly no blue period. They are steel and bores are perfect with lots of wall thickness. Don't think Ive measured choke to determine if someone has opened them yet. Wood is good and solid from initial look over. However looks to have 1/2 or 3/4 too much drop at heel. I can adjust if I keep her.

Rockdoc and Recoil Rob, I thought those 4's meant full. Thanks!

KY Jon, I also was surprised it worked as well. The most crud I've ever seen in one gun!

This gun is in good overall shape, just needs some TLC to bring back to respectability!
Cheers, Travis

Okay.........can somebody tell me how to get the top lever out? Please!
thanks,

Battle
I forgot, apparently full choke can mean different things to different time periods. I have a 12 bore Nitro Special (made by Ithaca) marked 4, when I measured the choke it measured .050" (4++!). The point is, you might want to measure the chokes and also shoot a few patterns to learn exactly what you have.
Steve

Battle,
This was in my 1905 Parker. Probably never been apart since new, maybe yours too.

Oh no.....This has been into. Screws are past being buggered!
BTW, still looking for a cardboard tube to send those barrels to you.
Cheers,

PS. Top lever.......PEOPLE! :rolleyes:

Mail barrels rolled in bubbles in PVC with screw ends screwed shut with sheet metal screws. Address written on pipe with indelible magic marker. Reuseable and no one can figure out how to stack anything on top of it. No fuss, no muss.

eightbore,
I recently got some barrels shipped in that were packaged that way. Somehow, UPS managed to break one of the pipe caps.
Jim

OK,
I pulled my Flues SBT (early without the crossbolt). It has differences but I think it is the same principle.

From the state of dissassembly that your pic shows you need to:
1 Remove the top lever return spring(cant see if you did in the pic)
2 Remove screw that is in the rectangluar block (surrounds the bolt)
3 Drive out the hammerpin. It is retaining the bolt. You should be able to drive it out so it is just holding the farside hammer and then pull your punch out so it retains the close hammer.
4 Push the bolt out towards the rear of the receiver. If there is resistance you may not have the hammer pin out far enough(or your punch)Remember the hammer pin keeps the bolt from falling out!
5 use a small punch and gently tap from the bottom thru the hole in the spindle, this should loosen the top lever(dont pound on it) Then stick a small screw driver in the hole where the lever return spring was and gently pry the spindle(part with the three studs sticking out)down.
6 Wiggle the top lever around and it should come off of the 3 pins in the spindle and out the back of the receiver. It might come out straight up if there is not a rib extension that the bolt locks into like the "wings" sticking out to the side on my bolt, except it would be one and stick straight out.
If this dosent make sense feel free to ask questions. Like I say the double is probably some what different. Dont force anything!!!
Good luck,.
Ross

Hi reb87,
Thanks......I appreciate all the fine pics, hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to work on mine.
Did you get the diagram form JL on repairing split stocks?
Cheer, Travis