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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1 |
Steve, sent you a PM.
JC(AL)
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298 |
Sounds great. I think many would like to see a stock redo on an old Army Navy. The cutting with boilded linseed also makes sense I haven't tried it yet but was thinking of doing that after my last post.
I will look into that Butchers Bowling Alley wax, too.
And also I am intersted in the Carnuaba wax from that 'business venture' that didn't take flight. How can we get some?
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659 |
Well, I got her done last night and assembled. I cound not find a but stock to my liking so I went through my junk drawer and came upon one that was on my Dad's old single 12 gauge. I felt it apropriate and ground, filed and sanded to fit. Looks good on there, I will take some pics tonight.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659 |
JayCee...... I just checked my PM's and nothing there. If you like send me an e-mail to steveyacht@hotmail.com.
thanks,
steve
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31 |
Personally I would avoid waxing a stock unless I never intended re-oiling the finish. Should you want to use a wax polish you could do a fine job with Bri-wax (excellant)
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1 |
Agree with Salopian. The carnauba wax (at least) leaves a very impermeable and hard surface on the finish.
OTOH it does impart a nice subdued protective shine.
JC(AL)
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1 |
I should warn you that removing the carnauba wax is a pain. I had to sand the experimental stock I applied it on. It had three applications of linseed oil and I experimented with my water soluble wax on it. (No, it does not come off with water)
The wax was impervious to acetone and 190º proof alcohol so I ended sanding it away.
JC(AL)
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298
Member
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OP
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298 |
JayCee---thank you for the wax. I am SIKED to try it... and Steve, where are those pictures of the old Army Navy stock redo? Would like to see it!
I have tried that Behlens Blood Red and the Tung Oil on some nice old wooden boxes I have. They were looking tired and I was never crazy about the colour. WOW, they look terrific now. The colour is red without being too garish and the tung oil 4-6 coats is incredible; it looks like an old finish, not brand new which is what i was seeking.
I am part way through my current redo project. still applying mahogony stain and sanding to fill grain and darken the wood... it is getting there. Soon I'll be in the Behlen Blood Red phase! Then tung oil.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1 |
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659 |
Thanks To Juan Carlos for posting my pics. When I got this A&N you could not even see that there was any grain to thwe wood at all. The area around the loks was totally black with oil, grunge and grime. I was not comfortable using the Acetone and Alchohol baths as recommended, so I just scrubbed the hell out of it with Murphy's Oil Soap and hot water. After which I set the over temp to as low as it would go (approx 190F) and let dry for about an hour, turned off the oven and let it cool in the oven. Next day the oiling began...... Put it back together day before yesterday. I call this a mantainence re-finish just to clean it up but not make it look too new!
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