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Jack, carnauba is among the hardest of natural waxes you can find (in its pure form it is harder than concrete ) so I suppose not only does it impart shine, but also protection. This is why it is a component in the better car polishing compounds.

JC(AL)


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I should mention I have (from a failed business venture) about 18 liters of carbauba wax in liquid form (water soluble) that is very easy to apply and imparts a very nice shine. If anyone wants some let me know.

JC(AL)


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Yogi

Now let me get this right, what you're doing following basic stock prep is to start with a mahogany stain which you sand in to both fill the grain and achieve the beginning darker color you want - - and then you're moving on to Blood Red?

If so, then your stain has an oil base which permits both coloring and filling? Or, did I miss the correct instruction here?

For what its worth, Bethlen Solar-Lux also comes in a mahogany -B503 3A10 - which readily mixes with oil. Solar Lux products being dyes, penetrate better than stains. What brand of oil stain did you start with?

Regarding the tung oil subject, I'm pleased to hear this. For years and years I've been using little bottles of Formbys Tung Oil Finish for almost all of my oiling work. - So you think that the finish you're getting with your selected brand of tung oil compares well with that provided by Salopian's linseed oil based recipe?

Appreciate your comments.

For another "for-what-its-worth", Formbys and I suspect other tung oil brands have hardeners added to them just like proprietary linseeed oil based finishes. Formbys dries hard and is easy to apply. Its also comparatively cheap.

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JayCee,
I would like some of the wax. PM not working for me so email hanslicharpent@hotmail.com so we can work out details. I might be able to assist you with any shopping that is unavailable in your market. Let me know.

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Hansli, just sent you an email.

JC(AL)


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Carnauba wax gives a harder finish than beeswax (most traditionalists still use beeswax)Venetian turpentine also helps the finish to be harder but also gives the oil 'body' and the finish a certain 'depth'.
Tung oil can give some people a rash so take care.
Most 'Antique' oils are Tung oil with driers and may have spar varnish or polyurethane added, that may be why they are harder,shinier and faster drying than Linseed.
To each his, or her, own.
I am proud of what I produce and happy.
Last week a very happy customer showed off his gun I had just refinished for him, to a friend.
Saying the following "look at the finish, wood that beautiful doesn't grow on trees" ???????????????

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The Tung Oil I used was Formby's, too. And yes they have dryers/hardeners in there as well as gloss enhancers. I used to formulate epoxies and I am familier with some additives that can dramatically enhance gloss. (Byk Mallincrot, German company, incredible stuff.) I was very happy with the Formby's Tung Oil in high gloss. I have yet to play with rottenstone to adjust the gloss some. But I will soon.

Salopian---That is one funny line: "wood that beautiful doesn't grow on trees!!!" hahaha! Also, I really like the linseed oil look, I just haven't been able to get it to really "cure" for me. And they mar too easily, the ones I have done. However, I believe you when you say your customers are very happy with your work. Moreover, how many decades has linseed oil been successfully used by the best gun makers?

I have used Minwax stain in Mahogony to fill and darken, very thin applications, depending on the wood, I may cut it with solvent to make it even thinner. Wet sand to help fill. I hear you about it being oil based and maybe I should try another Behlen stain instead to fill and darken the wood then apply the Blood Red.

All good ideas.

Last edited by Yogi 000; 11/20/06 12:45 PM.

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Is canuba wax the same as "carnauba" wax, JayCee?

I assume it is. But you know what theys ay about assuming anything....


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From what I could find, it is. It was referred to as the "hardest and most expensive" wax, so...

JC(AL)


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I have been using Formby's tung oil for years on furiture restos and gunstocks. On some stocks, I have been cutting it a bit with boiled linseed oil ( to get the "sheen" I desire) and applying very sparingly letting dry 24 hours before next coat. After approximately 25 to 30 coats (I lost count) I let dry for three days then applied a couple of coats of Butcher's Bowling Alley wax with my fingers and letting is set up about 15-20 minutes before buffing out with a 100% cotton cloth. (I use diapers)

This is a Carnauba based wax that has some turpentine in the base that is very good for wood of all sorts. It leaves a very nice sheen while giving the surface a nice hard protective finish. I use this same wax as a finish and protectant on all of my guns to include waxing barrels and all the metal bits.

I have just finished an old Army and Navy .410 stock and as soon as I get the butt plate on and totally reassembled I will be happy to post some pics...... But, I will neeed some help cuz I can't walk while you chew gum.

Last edited by Steve Lawson; 11/20/06 05:04 PM.
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