Sorry for the late response.
The peep Dave shows was designed by George Hoenig. I have made a few and it takes about 8 hours of tedious hand work. This is how I do it.
After establishing the screw pitch, make a threaded post about .75 long the diameter of the top lever screw. Use a tap or lathe to cut the threads and leave a square shoulder. Tighten the new threaded post in-place on the top lever with vise grips. Take a taught tread and lay it from the front sight blade through the rear sight notch and along the new sight post. Scribe a line on the side of the post in alignment with the elevation on the thread. Cover all of the action and top lever with making tape to keep filings out. Cut the post off, leaving it at least .10 high. File the top flat. Mark the center line of the sights on the new flat post top using the taught tread as a guide. Start filing on the rear post sides making two "flats" so the rear post will eventually be a "cube" about .190 in diameter. Now when you need to remove the post, you can use a cresent wrench on the flats. You will also need to file a radius and "blade stop", on the top of the post. Now make the rear blade out of .150 thick flat stock. The blade will be about .45 high and have a square "notch" .245 wide and .160 deep filed in the bottom. A 3/64 diopter hole will be drilled in the center line of the blade, about .280 above the base. Next drill a shadow hole about .195 diameter, centered on the diopter hole- drilled about half-way through the blade from the front side. Drill and tap holes on both blade "ears" for 2/56 Allen screws. The screws will have sharpend pivot points that fit into center punched marks on either side of the square sight post, allowing the blade to fold up and down.
All of this work requires lot of what George Hoenig calls "fiddling" to get elevations and centers lined up with the thread line. On most rifles, a new front blade also needs to be manufactured. It should be left purposefully high and filed down later for elevation adjustment. Once the rear blade has been adjusted for windage with the Allen screws, Locktite is applied to the threads. You can make the sight as fancy as you like, adding matting with a checkering file if desired. Bluing is the last step.
This sounds complicated I know, but refering to the photo should help. I probably left out some important detail too. I will try to add other photos when I get a moment.
These sights are not easy to make but if you go to the trouble, you will have one of the handiest and best sights a hunter could imagine. Effective out to about 150 yds, it never it fogs up and folds up and down instantly. Just find the target in the aperture and it's automatically centered by the eye.
Last edited by C. Kofoed; 10/15/08 08:40 AM.