doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com How Do You Close A SxS

Lockikng bolts on many break open guns are tapered to give compensation for wear (All are not). Selecting the amount of taper is always a compromise. With a steep taper there is the posibility of pressure upon the bolt being greater than it's friction causing it to "Squirt Back" giving a "Self Opening" gun upon firing. With a shallow taper there is the very real posibility of the bolt "Sticking" & requiring excessive force on the top lever to disengage it. Winchester chose (I was not in on their decision thus have no idea as to their reasonings) the shallow angle route & used the screw in the bottom of notch to deal with sticking prevention. Parker Bros on the other hand chose to go the Steep angle route & dealt with the posibility of bolt "Squirting Back" by using a little paralell side rail with minimal clearence on either side of the wedge bolt. In the event the bolt did try to slide back from pressure applied by the lift of the bbls these side rails having no caming action, their friction would stop further motion of the bolt, preventing the gun from "Blowing open".
Some other makers tried to hit a compromise taper which was shallow enough to prevent the gun opening yet steep enough to prevent a serious sticking problem. Generally they were reasonably successfull.
This all has little to do with the actual method of closing the gun & doesn't require a rocket scientist to understand, just enough common sense to figure the "Dangle of the Angle".
While at opposite ends of the spectrum, both the Winchester & Parker methods proved to be successful, proving I suppose, there really is "More than one way to Skin a Cat".

"Most likely"? I don't play the odds when it comes to gun safety - a loaded gun can discharge any time, anywhere. And when dogs are moving out in front, sweeping a set of loaded tubes up from pointing at the ground is an unnecessary risk. You don't need elaborate choreography to close a gun, just a bit of common sense.

The act of lifting the barrels to the frame requires sweeping the barrels on nearly a 45% arc. If you can do that without sweeping something you don't want to shoot surely it is possible to raise a loaded gun safely. Unless of course you are pointing the barrels above the horizon while loading(possible but kind of a trick with a break open gun) and only carry the gun port arms. I really don't find it hard to raise a gun from pointed at the ground to ready without sweeping something I don't want to shoot.

I'm left handed and raising my left hand to close the gun instead of my right doesn't really require elaborate choreography.

I don't have a problem if you close your gun the other way, but there is no way you will convince me my way is more dangerous.

Think about it, ohiosam: lifting barrels to the frame means the gun isn't locked until the muzzles are up. Lifting frame to barrels means your gun is loaded, locked and ready to fire while still pointing at the ground - where dogs can be running in unpredictable ways. That gun is then in battery throughout the entire arc from down to shooting position.

While you bring the barrels up to the action, both hands are in gunning position where you have maximum control at all times. If you lift the butt to the barrels, you have to change hand position while holding a loaded, locked gun. Which is safer?

Of course, you have a right to handle and load your gun any way you want - but I won't hunt my dog with anyone who makes a habit of pointing a loaded gun at the ground.

Terry,

Yeah, I can stand behind that.

I ride the lever over when im not closing on ammo. Just screwing around, why work the bolt any more than nec.? But when im going to shoot I want that engagement maxed out and will not ride the lever back.

BTW - as a state-certified firearm safety instructor, I first noticed students using the 'muzzle toward the ground' carry after Desert Storm, when returning vets, trained on military weaponry, brought the practice with them.

That carry works with a pistol-gripped assault weapon - especially when your next target is likely to be on the ground ahead of you. But in the civilian hunting field it is dangerous, especially around gun dogs, and it took some re-education to get those muzzles up in the air where they belong!

We've beat this to death several times before, likely changing no one's mind. The Browning owner's manuals both for the Superposed and the BSS say to close the action, allowing the bolt to snap into place. They specifically add that the lever should not be retarded or held up in any way. Beretta says the same thing, as I recall. I watched the head smith at Purdey's close a 130 year old SxS, out of the company collection, by snapping it closed. No thumb on the lever. NOBODY SAID SLAMMING!

Jim Legg is absolutely right. Here's a direct quote from the Browning BSS owner's manual:

"Upon closing your gun, let the top lever snap into position - do not retard its action with your thumb."

Now, what part of that do you lever-riders not understand?

What's one of the first things you are told about revolver maintenance? Perhaps to NEVER pry the side plate off of a revolver but to tap on the other side until it comes loose.
Smith & Wesson had an onsite clinic at the Scottsdale Gun Club and brought in two factory gunsmiths. I brought in a Model 28 that needed attention and the gunsmith proceeded to pry the sideplate off. When queried he stated that "while tapping works it takes way too much time". However he did NOT slam the cylinder shut upon re-assembly.
I'm posting this to illustrate that what a concern may state and what they do in actual practice are sometimes not one and the same.
Jim