doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Selecting the right "upgrade" gun

I am thinking about starting a upgrade gun, most likely will be a Fox Sterlingworth. This will not be done to make it look like a higher grade Fox, rather a custom stock and non factory type engraving. I was wondering, after seeing and being inspired by quite a few very well "upgraded" guns on this site, what criteria do YOU use when selecting the right gun to upgrade. Barrel condition, blueing, top lever position, buggered or non buggered screws? Which criteria are more important and why? Clearly you want to get the best example of whatever model you are after, but upgrading a near mint field grade is not the best use, IMO.

Thanks,
Tom

I like the Fox SW as much as anyone else, but they are getting expensive to find a smallbore ejector (the favored config). For that matter, any vintage American smallbore double of decent quality is getting pricey. I'm thinking of my BSS 20g guns for upgrades. They are reliable as a bowling ball, high quality metal and machining, take modern pressure ammo, etc. The SKB smallbores are similar in terms of these characteristics.

Also, a good used AYA boxlock would make a great upgrade. They are decent quality, compatible with modern ammo, available in about any gauge and frame sizes seem to be scaled.

It's all about the barrels. Most embarking on such a project would want a gun that has barrels that are sound and un-cut, free of defects such as pitting and one's that ring like a church bell which signifies that the ribs are not loose--although that could be rectified...it's only money! Because of the investment I also required an ejector gun, but others may prefer an extractor gun.

Here is a pic of the engraving on my nearly completed 20-gauge Sterlingworth Ejector.

That's certainly a "knock your socks off" example! Beautiful work!
Jim

As an engraver, I seem to stay busy up-grading the engraving on Sterlingworths, LC Smiths, Lefevers and some Parkers --- you can also throw in a few Win. 21's.

For myself, I want sound bbl's, and sound action but don't want a nice cosmetic finish. As I will have to anneal the action & forend, their condition makes no difference to me --- they will have to be draw filed & hand polished before I start engraving. Also, buying a gun with a nice/decent finish is an expense that will be wasted (re. the above). Same goes for the stocks. I always hang a nice piece of wood to my spec's. on the gun so why buy a gun with good/decent stock. FWIW. Ken

Bam !!!, WOW, These guns have 4 sides, nothing less than 4 photos will do. It also has wood??? Randy

Generally I am against altering old original classic doubles just as I am against street-rodding nice Model A's. However, Bamboozlers' Fox presents a pretty convincing arguement for the other side. We will want to see the finished product for final judgement, for he could proceed with vent rib, adjustable comb kevlar stock, and ported barrels. Seriously, I would take that gun off his hands for safety sake as I am concerned that removal of so much metal on the breeches may have taken it out of proof.

Didn't McIntosh say the Fox SW?

If you get a chance find a Sterlingworth ejector gun, in decent shape. Saw one a few weeks back for $800.00. Should have bought it but I have too many guns now for projects. If I do three a year I will not get them all done.

But buy a decent project gun when ever you have both the gun at hand and money to buy it with. You can always sell it later, but I can almost never can go back and find the same gun for the same money later. Do not be afraid of buying two or three before your project gets going. You can sell one of two of them to get money to start the project if needed. Save the best for your needs and sell the rest.

By decent I want sound barrels, no dents in the tubes, action tight and on face and screws not buggered up. I much prefer a gun which has not had a screw turned so I know no other gun-hacker has been monkeying with the works. If the gun has no case color it suits me just fine. Condition only counts in the mechanical sense not the finish sense. You do not want to buy a gun that you have to fix, just to get it working, before the upgrade begins. Just wasted time and money. Same goes for condition. High condition will mean that you have to pay extra for something that you do not need.

I have been stockpiling 12 gauge Fox A grades, the early ones with the very minimum engraving. Sterlingworths before the Savage take over in 12, 16 and too few 20's, a few Sterlingworth pin guns. Lefevers in DS, H, G and F grades with Damascus and steel barrels. Bakers with Baker and Montgomery Wards names with steel and damascus barrels. I have a few Belgian guild guns that would be decent candidates for projects, both side plates and box locks. A few Ithaca NIDs also in 12, 16 and 20. Even a few Crescents and Meridians. Buy what catches you eye and use your imagination.

I had a dozen or more LC Smiths and sold the lot. They just never made me that excited about the upgrade project. Got rid of my Parker project guns as well. Figured the world had enough enhanced Parkers already. I sold guns for several times what I paid for them and have to say that I do not miss them.

This is a bit embarassing as I've posted these pics before, but nonetheless; I'm pretty proud of it! I had all Wisconsin artisans working on this project. Mark Beasland did most of the metal prep, including action scalloping, bluing and trigger sculpting. Toby Leeds is finishing up the stocking (wood from Cecil Fredi) and did the conversion to straight grip. Bob Strosin provided the engraving and French Gray finish.

This was the basis, a 1913 20-ga. Sterlingworth Ejector with 30" 4-weight barrels:



It went from that to this:








Forend escutcheon below:








I will post pics of the completed project once it is entirely finished.