I always think of 10s as 2 types, heavy and light. The heavy guns go 9-11+ lbs. Light is 8-9, sometimes sub-8 but they are rare. The light guns are more useable for clays and Vintage Competitions. The heavy guns are better suited to hunting waterfowl.
$2700 is alot for a gun with virtually no factory ammo available. If it were a 12 ejector it would be a good price. A 10 extractor would be a lot less valuable.
Rocketman will apply "the formula" and give you a fair estimate. Some dealers think 10 is rarer and worth more, in fact to most Vintagers I know, it is worth less. The last Greener 10 bought by a Carolina Vintager was $850, but did not have the condition you describe.
If the gun has light weight, ejectors, a top safety and modern stock dimensions, correct barrels in a Greener (or period) case, it is priced fairly. If it has a side safety, is heavy, with trimmed barrels, out of proof, weird dimensioned, uncased, it would struggle to bring half the asking price.
Nitro-Proof became optional in 1896, since the gun is dated 1893, it confirms the proof marks are correct. However, it also means the gun has not seen the proof house in 115 years. A professional measurement of the barrels would confirm that the gun is unmolested. The chamber length should be 2 7/8". Real early 10s were 2 5/8". If it has longer chambers the 10 C mark would be 10 LC for long chamber. Any chamber length greater than 2 7/8" would be suspect.
If you do opt for the gun, empty 10 hulls are 40+cents each, plus wads, shot and powder. I figure about 75 cents a shot with todays lead prices. A 100 shot round of clays is $75 of shells plus range fees. You can use ChamerMates to reduce the 10 to 12 and the shoot Polywad's 2 1/2" low pressure shells. Modern 2 3/4" US loads will be too high a pressure for the gun. There were some RST short 10s for sale at the Vintage Cup. It seems they were around $15 for box of 10.
Joe