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Joined: Jan 2003
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
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Beautiful work, Doug!
Hope you don't mind my asking, but the rise of the comb nose on the Daly looks pretty substantial. I know you advocate bending the tangs on the Foxes...was that not a consideration for the Daly? Or am I out in the weeds, and it's not as pronounced as the pic has me believing?
thanks, Mike
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 749 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 749 Likes: 16 |
Mike, Part of what you see is the angle at which I took the photo, part of it is the style that I chose to use for the front of the comb. This style is closer to the original than if I had layed the angle back like I do on a Fox. The drop at the comb and heel is also different than the original Dalys in that this is the gun that I use to shoot clays with. Dalys or any of the Sauer actioned guns for that matter don't lend themselves to tang bending like a Fox does. Foxes as you know are simple inside and have a very simple safety. Dalys on the other hand have a sculptured safety that must have taken the gunsmith hours if not days to make. I guess what I'm saying is that I chose not to do any bending of the Daly's tang. I'm probably better off for that decision.
Doug Mann
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,737 Likes: 55
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,737 Likes: 55 |
Doug, very, very nice and a beautiful design. Did you use your own design. Also what kind of checkering tools are the three center see through ones?
David
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227 |
Doug,
Thanks for that very satisfactory reply!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 749 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 749 Likes: 16 |
Thank you JDW. Yes, I design my own checkering patterns and just draw them on the stock with a "china marker'. Thanks to a good friend of mine I now have china markers in all the important colors (black,white, red and yellow). I know there are other methods to draw patterns on stocks but i've been doing it this way for so long I just can't see myself changing.
The three handles in the center are W.E. Brownell "full view" handles that I've used for many years. I use Gunline tips in these handles and am pretty happy with them. As Mark Stokeld says the W.E.Brownells cutters that you can buy now are garbage. The tool with the engravers handle on it is a file that I ground the tip to a 45 degree angle and I use it to make and clean out mullered borders with.
Last edited by Doug Mann; 12/01/07 11:33 PM.
Doug Mann
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,189 Likes: 18
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,189 Likes: 18 |
That has to be some of the prettier work ever, Doug. I really like the treatment for your personal Fox and I can only smile when I think of all the words written about how having a border on chequering is a sign of inferior work. Obviously none of those guys ever saw any of yours!
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,583 |
How to get started. Buy two coarse and two fine single line cutters and four handles. One pair is push and the other is pull, mark the the handles. Take a Citori and point up the checkering on the whole thing. Doug's post and amazing work is about "how to be finished checkering" . He probably doesn't use dymo tape as straight border layout/runover protection....but I do. Could of used straight borders here.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 629 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 629 Likes: 1 |
I must admit, Mr. Mann's work does show some promise. If he keeps at it, well shucks, who knows how far he could go? Being ever supportive of budding talent, I am going to send him this rifle blank to practice on... Glenn
There is no sacrifice too great for someone else to make.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 144
Member
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Member
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Glen,
That is some stock blank. Phew!!! Hubba Hubba!!!!
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227 |
How to get started. Buy two coarse and two fine single line cutters and four handles. One pair is push and the other is pull, mark the the handles Yeti (& others), Though I've seen mention of cutting on the push stroke, I've always installed all my cutters to cut only on the pull. Can you elaborate on where/when you like to cut on the forward stroke?
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