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Sidelock
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I know most experts say all pattern test should be 40 yards. But I often do 20, 25 or 30 yards if those distances are more realistic for my most likely shooting distances. I’ve seen a lot of good 25-30 yard patterns which look too open and spotty at 40 yards. And most people hit few Dove at an honest 40 yards, for that matter few even know what 40 yards is in the field.

I place distance markers, cut weeds, when I’m shooting Dove. At 30 or 33 yards which is my effective .410 patterns. If a Dove is inside 33 yards I expect a clean kill when I do my part. Hence the shorter pattern distances. All my .410 patterns look weak at 40 yards, which is beyond my shooting distances. So I use 25-30 as my test range when pattern.

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The First and last pattern look the best to me. I shoot black powder loads in everything from 28 gauge to 4 gauge and in most of my guns a heavier powder charge patterns more evenly. I have found that not to be the case with smokeless powder.


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Thanks for all the help! I thought the last pattern was the best as well. My plan was to pattern that load at shorter distances as well so I can figure what an effective range will be.

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Just an observation, but the pellet strikes appear predominantly "doubles". Is this an artefact due to the substance of the backstop or are the pellet marks actually two adjacent pellet strikes?

On the basis of your remark that the wads feel to be a slack fit in the hull, can there be gas leakage to account for the pattern irregularity and distribution of pellet strike?

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Originally Posted by greener4me
Just an observation, but the pellet strikes appear predominantly "doubles". Is this an artefact due to the substance of the backstop or are the pellet marks actually two adjacent pellet strikes?

On the basis of your remark that the wads feel to be a slack fit in the hull, can there be gas leakage to account for the pattern irregularity and distribution of pellet strike?

I think the double marks are a Sharpie pen next to each pellet strike indicating it has been counted. I noticed the same thing and wondered for a moment how that could be.

I do think that loose wads will have an effect on pattern (and efficiency of the load in general. In fact, I know it will.


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Perhaps I should try 10 gauge wads. Of course, this is my first foray into reloading black powder, so I have no idea how tight and how much force it should take to install the cards and wads.

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3 drams and 1 1/8oz of good #6 shot worked well for me in a cylinder bored hammergun.Shot some really good grouse with that combo!
That was in ordinary PT plastic cases,card + fibre wad and roll turnover with card.Only seating pressure on wad column.

Last edited by Imperdix; 03/13/24 10:45 AM. Reason: add info
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I use felt wads in paper cases. I find them easier to apply lube to and they load better than most of the bigger fiber wads. I am not sure how they would do in Magtechs. I load 3-1/4dr of 3F, a nitro card, a 1/4” dry felt wad, a 1/4” lubed felt wad (I use wonderlube), an overshot card, 1-1/8oz lead, and roll crimp. I sometimes use a Nitro card on top instead of an overshot card in brass cases if heavy walking is expected. I have used glue on top but am not convinced it’s necessary if the top card is tight.

Last edited by bsteele; 03/14/24 06:44 AM.
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Drew, Thanks for the clarification; I never noticed the discrepancy in terminology before. Sandlapper

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I always use equal volumes of BP and shot. I have killed a limit of doves with my 16 ga. with that loading.

Sorry, no pics. It was before cell phone cameras.


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