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#635272 09/08/23 09:22 PM
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Is there any type of wad loading tool or guide that can be used as a stand-alone tool when hand loading shells at the bench with scoop and scale? I'm loading 2" paper 12 gauges with fiber wads and the wads are beating up the leading edge of the hull. I think Ideal may have made something like this year ago, but I don't know what it's called (so I can sic a search for it on Ebay).


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You can use the wad guide on a press to load all the shells at once.then finish on the bench.

mc #635279 09/08/23 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mc
You can use the wad guide on a press to load all the shells at once.then finish on the bench.

I've thought about that, but I'd have to either modify the press (which might be a good idea anyway), or I have to walk things around the turntable to avoid the depriming/priming stations. I do have a spare press at the moment.


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I was thinking of something like this Ideal Straight Line reloader.
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]


I think GLS uses something similar but with a Francaphone accent.

Last edited by BrentD, Prof; 09/08/23 09:57 PM.

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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Lot 16 in next week’s Southams Gun Sale.

You can’t see the interiors but I believe that the three brass tubes on the left of the picture taper internally to a step that matches the thickness of a paper case, compressing the wad so it entered the case smoothly.

Firm pressure on the plunger should then re-expand it to fill the case snugly.

Last edited by Parabola; 09/09/23 02:53 AM.
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Brent, here's the Ideal tool you mentioned above. Problem with it as it comes unmodified, the brass finger wad guides don't reach down deep enough for a 2" shell as it is designed for 2.75". Your depicted advertisement showing the tool with a cutaway drawing makes it clearer as to what I mean. The bottom of the lighter colored tube in my photo would need .75" shortening with more metal work to allow it to refit into the base. The gunmetal colored parts of the tool are steel. The lighter colored are aluminum. Old reloading kits included a funnel device with a long tube that encases the hull. The ID of the "funnel" is slightly smaller than the ID of the hull. I believe that would allow a slight compression of the fiber wad which would eliminate snagging of the fiber wad. The NC is easier to manipulate past the hull mouth. I don't have as much problem with fiber wad insertion on freshly cut down paper as I do with once fired cut down paper hulls. Once fired meaning fired one time in 2", not 2 3/4" length before cutting down for 2". My tapered wooden ramming tool does help reshape the mouth tighter. A simpler Straightline device could be easily made from maple stock on a lathe. The brass or plastic wad fingers are easily found on ebay, etc. Gil
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Yes, Gil, it is the once fired cases that are the problem. If I don't do something they won't last long. I think I was wrong when I said it would be a pain to have to move cases around the turntable to reach the wad station. With these short cases, I can just stick them on top of the turntable.

But I would like a neater tool and I have been contemplating turning one on the lathe. I even have the maple block picked out. But not sure how to anchor the plastic fingers. The Pacific fingers or the MEC finger assembly? I have them both located on Ebay. Just need a better plan.


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BrentD,

If you have access to a lathe could you turn a recess a little shallower than the thickness of the Mec Fingers, when open the hole in a washer big enough for a wad to pass thru. Add 3 or 4 holds in the edge of the washer for screws to pass thru and into the maple block. These will hold the washer in place and will sandwich the Mec fingers by pinching them between the wood and washer.

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The Old Lyman 'Easy' presses used to have a stand alone aluminium tube with wad guide fingers. Although it is over length and made for 70mm. cases it could easily be turned down to shorten it. If you can't source one I may be able to put my hands on a spare. There should be some around. They came with the press but no doubt they would have been supplied separately. Lagopus.....

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Originally Posted by WBLDon
BrentD,

If you have access to a lathe could you turn a recess a little shallower than the thickness of the Mec Fingers, when open the hole in a washer big enough for a wad to pass thru. Add 3 or 4 holds in the edge of the washer for screws to pass thru and into the maple block. These will hold the washer in place and will sandwich the Mec fingers by pinching them between the wood and washer.

wbldon

Don, I have a wood lathe, not a metal lathe, but I think I could do this. However, I may have just stumbled across something that will work really well.


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