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#629116 04/23/23 11:12 AM
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I’m aware that most makers made multiple grades of double with perhaps extensive variation between grades. I’m wondering what goes into grade that we can still readily observe. For example, does the amount of engraving give us a rough idea of original grade, or the figure in the wood? What else would have distinguished a “best” gun from something bought for a keeper, or some other lower grade?

Ploughjogger #629119 04/23/23 11:37 AM
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Not an expert on this subject, but my SWAG says a higher grade of shotgun, especially a "London Best" was a bespoke gun, or matched pair thereof. In America, my SWAG says that more elaborate engraving, wood grain, etc. was the point of demarcation as to grade differences, despite the flowery ad copy used by, let's say: Hunter Arms and Parker Brothers from pre-WW1 up to 1930 era.. I have several 12 gauge L.C. Smiths-- (1) my "barnyard" utility- I hate the term "beater" 1 12 gauge R frame field grade made in 1921- 30" F&F, DT, Ext. Good stock dims, my working gun for barnyard shooting: pigeons, crows, raccoons, woodchucks feral cats, etc. All shot with AA trap loads, 1&1/8 oz. No. 8's- I like the extractors, as I save my empties, and also do not leave litter of any sort on the properties where I am fortunate to have access, and also because dairy cattle are prone to picking up and swallowing things, including spent shells. The dead birds and vermin get pitchforked into the farmer's "Turd Hearse" for future field fertilization. In comparison, I also have a 1912 era Smith 4E- Hot, 30" F&F, same as the field grade Smith-R framed, splinter FE, POW Grip--same good stock dins, but NOT by any means a "matched pair".. So- is the steel used in the frame, components and barrels any different from the 1921 mfg. Field Grade from the 1912 mfg. Grade 4E?? To my eye, the only variation, ejectors and HOT nonwithstanding, is the engraving, the checkering and the wood grain. Or, am I missing something??? RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
Ploughjogger #629120 04/23/23 11:54 AM
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Not an answer, but a helpful guide. Don Hardin’s Doublegun Comparison Chart
Note the prices are the catalog MSRP and dealer selling prices may be much less

[Linked Image from photos.smugmug.com]

John Houchins' comparison chart is under "General Information" here
https://lcsca.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=274&club_id=43784

Ploughjogger #629121 04/23/23 12:12 PM
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Certainly the wood choice as well as the external engraving can be generally used for stratification of grade.

But gun companies are in the business of selling guns. Certain brands were well known for putting all the money on the outside, and leaving the inside rough as a cob.
Others extended their extra finishing to the inside.

Don’t forget, sometimes, a manufacturer used different mechanisms between grades. That also effects quality tier.

Learning which models and features are desirable, evaluating condition, etc., are all part of the learning curve for double guns.

And, in my opinion, very possibly the most fun part.

The best lessons are the ones you pay for.


Out there doing it best I can.
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Ploughjogger #629122 04/23/23 12:14 PM
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In the early days "Grade" had a lot to do with the quality and fineness of the Twist/Laminated/Damascus tubes the barrels were made from. The amount/quality of the engraving, the quality of the wood, the fineness/intricacy of the checkering and the fit/finish of the internal parts all sprung from the quality of the tubes being used. Many decades ago "Babe" Delgrego showed me Parker Bros. set of tumblers showing the increasingly fine polish as the grades went up.

Ploughjogger #629129 04/23/23 01:51 PM
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IMHO the quality of the components and finish for each "Grade" was at a price point

c. 1890 Factory Hammerless List Price Comparison

L.C. Smith........Ithaca...............Parker............Lefever

…………….....……...No. 1 - $50

………................No. 2 - $60….…….PH/1 - $65…...….G - $65

No. 2 - $80…..…….No. 3 - $80….…….GH/2 - $80….…….F - $80

No. 3 - $100……...No. 4 - $100……...DH/3 - $100……...E - $100

No. 4 - $150……...No. 5 - $150……...CH/4 - $150……...D - $125

No. 5 - $200……...No. 6 - $200……...BH/5 - $200……...C - $150



1902 The Pacific Hardware & Steel Co., San Francisco, CA

...................Parker..................L.C. Smith..............Remington

$70...............VH........................No. 1 ($60)..............BO ($75)

$80...............GH........................No. 2.....................BEO

$100.............DH........................No. 3......................CE ($95)

$150.............CH........................No. 4......................D

$200.............BH........................No. 5......................E ($225)

(AE on Smith guns add $15)

Ploughjogger #629131 04/23/23 02:09 PM
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Drew is quoting "List Prices" above. The actual net selling prices were a lot less. The last decade of the 19th and the first decade of the 20th century our double gun manufacturers followed that practice.

Last edited by Researcher; 04/23/23 02:15 PM.
Ploughjogger #629149 04/23/23 07:01 PM
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Mine is a Birmingham made, not sure the maker, but pretty heavily engraved, and nice (to me) wood. Certainly not a best, but appears nice enough

https://imgur.com/a/BLNqZlx

Ploughjogger #629157 04/24/23 09:42 AM
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Just think:
Sears Roebucks--Good, Better, Best.....

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Ploughjogger #629181 04/24/23 05:24 PM
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R, P, and V grade Darne guns were completely different actions. A Charlin was different than any of them, and a few of the F. Darne patents were different, as well.

Best,
Ted

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