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Hal #619380 09/16/22 07:34 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
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If the first lock is still cocked but the firing pin is stuck protruding from the breech face, theres a good chance the pin is broken and the parts are jammed into place.
The bushings crack often as well but can hold together till you start to unscrew them, then they fall apart .

Recock the locks using the cocking arms up front. The cocking arm(s) will not moveable if the lock is fired. The arm will flop up and down freely if the lock on that side is cocked.

A small crescent used to simply lever each arm individually back to cock the lock as Keith says works great.
I usually use a screwdriver blade to leverage each one using the other as a pivot point. Whatever works.

Bushed pins must come out the breach face. Take time to make a close fitting spanner. Keep track of which side each bushing, lock screw an FP goes in.
Later style pins can be removed by just taking the locks off.
The FP on each side just sits in a hole in the frame you can access from the inside of the lock recess,

The wood inletting up tight around that area will sometimes hold the pin from falling free from the frame , others will do just that when the gun is tipped muzzle up.
No set screw or sparate pin holding the FP in place. The installed lock does that

These pins are often mushroomed on the backend from hammer strikes. That can make them jam forward in their channel. They are also prone to breaking.
With a pipe cleaner and carefull manipulation you can clean out the FP hole in the frame from the back.
Taking the stock off of the frame is not necessary

Check the locks while you have them off of the gun and make sure they are in good condition. The sear engagement on these is cut rather rough whan assembled but they don't fall out of
engagement on their own or from rough handling that way.
Gun parts wear however and it can be a problem. Check for a loose bridle, the screws simply not tight. Make sure the two screws are in their correct positions. One will have it's screw head filed on slightly,,that one goes into the forward position on the bridle. The file marks are assembler adjustments for how deep the lock sits on the gun,,that screw head abutts the frame when assembled.
Some won't show any marks as the particular lock didn't need any adjustments in fitting depth.

Make sure there is a bit of trigger slack or take -up on the triggers before they engage the sear arms when the locks are cocked.
This ensures that the locks can be cocked fully and that the sear arms are not being pushed on by the trigger (blades) prematurely which can reverse the full engagement of sear to hammer and lead to a light trigger pull.
You don't need a lot of slack,,just some to see and feel that the triggers are off of the sear arms when the locks are cocked.

I wouldn't suggest removing the stock unless there are deffinate problems like this to fix.
The trigger plate has that Mack Truck of a top lever spring that will snap over as soon as the plate is pulled free of the frame.
For many, getting that assembly back together is where their gunsmithing adventures ends.
Don't be tempted to modify parts to be able to compress and hold that top lever spring so assembly is possible.
It's simply not needed.

1 member likes this: Drew Hause
Hal #619595 09/21/22 10:45 AM
Joined: Nov 2015
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Hal Offline OP
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Sidelock

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Went ahead and ordered a cocking tool. $20 on eBay. Will keep it as I have a few Smith 12's. Is a se[arate tool needed for all bore sizes?

Hal #619630 09/22/22 07:18 AM
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Sorry for the delay in responding Hal.
One tool fits all. The long arm of the cocking rod must be ROTATED DOWN using the opposing cocking rod arm as a lever.

[Linked Image from photos.smugmug.com]

[Linked Image from photos.smugmug.com]

It takes some effort as you are working against the force of the mainspring, and you will feel a "click" when the hammer is cocked.

What did you find in the innards of your friend's Smith?

Hal #619665 09/22/22 03:55 PM
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Hal Offline OP
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Thanks. We did not begin to disassemble.

Hal #619666 09/22/22 04:01 PM
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I don't know when it started and stopped, but Hunter Arms Co. supplied a tool in the box with the gun, but it was not for cocking the arms, it was for taking the locks apart. Somewhere along the line someone make one with the holes for cocking the arms. It is a nice to have one but a 4" adjustable wrench is faster and easier to use.


David


Joined: May 2008
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I have one of these tools- but agree a 4" Crescent wrench works as well- I noted some rather rough machining marks on the tool shown in the ils., or is my vision starting to "slip"?? RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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