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Joined: Jun 2008
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Sidelock
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coke can shim


USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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Originally Posted by Parabola
Suggest that before you shim that you centralise elevation adjustment ( wind all the way down and half way back).


Then set up a tall 50 yard target with an aiming mark at the top, and fire 1 or 3 rounds to measure total drop at 50 yards(1,800 inches).

Divide drop in inches by 1,800 and multiply by distance in inches between centres of your scope rings will give you a ball park figure for thickness of shim to insert between bottom of scope tube and the top of the lower rear scope ring.
Originally Posted by Parabola
Suggest that before you shim that you centralise elevation adjustment ( wind all the way down and half way back).


Then set up a tall 50 yard target with an aiming mark at the top, and fire 1 or 3 rounds to measure total drop at 50 yards(1,800 inches).

Divide drop in inches by 1,800 and multiply by distance in inches between centres of your scope rings will give you a ball park figure for thickness of shim to insert between bottom of scope tube and the top of the lower rear scope ring.


I also suggest this very much. I’m certain you’re aware, but use care when you are bottoming out the erector (either up or down) during this adjustment. While “modern technique” in long range shooting is to “dial the turrets”, the older optics really weren’t designed to be cranked on repeatedly. Just treat it with the respect it deserves! I also suspect a base issue. It’s normal in long range shooting to instal what is referred to as a “20MOA base” (they come in 0, 10, 20, 30) to allow say a 200-300y zero in the bottom of the scopes adjustment range. This allows the ability to “dial” the turrets for using the reticle directly for aiming at distances past 1000+ yards dialing the elevation directly.

Anyhow my .02. You may also want to measure the rough height on each base using a micrometer or fine ruler. Another way to confirm the problem without firing a shot.

Last edited by Entropy; 05/15/22 09:06 AM.
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Make the shim out of any type of soft metal or plastic sheet that is easy to cut. PUT SHIM UNDER THE REAR OF THE BASE NOT IN THE SCOPE RING.

You also need to center the reticle in the scope before bore sighting. Do this by counting the # of clicks for the full travel of either elevation or windage & divide by 2 then add that # of clicks from the maxed out position for both windage & elevation. This should center the reticle.

Use the shim (s) to get the elevation adjusted as closely as possible & the windage as close as possible using the windage adjustment screws (assuming you are using a Buehler or Redfield style base) @ 50 yds. before using the internal adjustments of the scope.

Then do the final adjustments to get the desired zero @ 100 yds using the internal adjustments on the scope for windage & elevation.

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I agree with "entropy" about being careful about bottoming out internal adjustments. Bottoming out the turret adjustments gives me the creeps. I'm always afraid something will stretch or break.

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Shim is a piss poor 'solution'.

I still say just cut your losses and get a Leupold base and ring set.

It will fit, and won't need any stinking shims.

Of course it won't look like vintage Weaver (Thank God).


"The price of good shotgunnery is constant practice" - Fred Kimble
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Whilst you can shim under the rear base rather than under the scope, my feeling is that it it best to get a very solid connection between the bases and the receiver ring.

They should be well snugged down and firmly loctited.

My reasoning is that it is much easier to monitor the tightness of your scope ring screws rather than that of the base screws which are inaccessible under the scope mounts.

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Agreed, a shim is not the ideal or most elegant solution.

They are still a very useful way to get a rifle to deliver its group where you want it, particularly if you do not have a better solution to hand.

As Herbert McBride found, rusted bits of razor blade can even stop a Warner and Swasey scope wobbling around on a .303” Ross.

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Right now, the reticule is in"dead center"-- I will CAREFULLY dial down to dead stop the elevation knob,counting carefully the clicks- then again Carefully raise the dial back UP 1/2 the number of clicks it took to bottom it out-- Interesting, as I though a shim would need to be placed in the bottom radius of the mounting ring, but the group seems to endorse placing it on the bottom of the mount, where it sits on the radius of the receiver--That might present a small problem, as I used a drop of Blue Loctite on the machine screws for each mounting ring--however, I applied the Loctite on the top of the screw head, and not into the D&T holes in the receiver of the rifle. Parabola-- a Warner and Swasey scope on a '.303 Ross rifle- sounds a bit like a Canadian set-up, am I correct? I know Warner & Swasey, as I know LeBlond, Cinncinati, Brown&Sharpe, Lufkin, Starret, Bridgeport, Atlas, and all the other great names in American Machine Shop operation- "back in the day"-- RWTF


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You might want to take a peek over at Vintagescopes.com. I’m NOT affiliated with them, but have used them for several projects and to refurbish an old K6. They do good work and usually have a plethora of period correct rings and bases available. Good folks.

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First World War sniper issue, although the Canadians also made use of and seemed to prefer armourer mounted Winchester A5 scopes.

His book “A Rifleman to War” has been reprinted and is well worth reading as in “In the Trenches 1914 to 1918” by Glenn R. Iriam.

Last edited by Parabola; 05/15/22 01:15 PM.
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