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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 255
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 255
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I have a P Webley rook rifle that has been bored out to .410 that is very similar looking to this one so I am inclined to suggest it came out of the Birmingham gun trade.

Joined: Dec 2020
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Dec 2020
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On YouTube Duellist1954 has just put up a video with detailed information on loading .38 Long Colt with both .357 hollow base and .375 heel-based bullets.

The latter should work fine in your Rook Rifle, and he gives sources for the moulds and a very ingenious solution for crimping the heel based bullets.

Joined: Jul 2012
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Joined: Jul 2012
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mbatten,
I just watched the video Parabola suggested and using "jury rigs" as I usually did will likely stop. I am changing the way I do things, except when I only need a few rounds for a "new" caliber. The source for molds cited in the video has the answer for 380, 360, 320 Rook as well as .310 Cadet and many other heeled bullet cartridges. I won't likely use black powder in my rifles, but understand why others do and I don't argue with their reasons. If you use the heeled bullets and the .375-378 ones won't chamber in your rifle, you should lube/size them to about .368" before you seat them. If you already have 38spec/357 mag dies, you should be able to use them and only need to buy the adjustable shellholder and factory crimp die.
Mike

Joined: Dec 2020
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Sidelock

Joined: Dec 2020
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Whilst the custom made shell holder as shown in the video is clearly the way to go to crimp any quantity of heel based bullets, I believe that it is possible to use the Lee Factory crimp die on cartridges the are too short by holding the assembled round inverted in the die.

This will involve a certain degree of care to position them accurately , and checking that the bullets are sufficiently firmly seated not to drop out dumping powder in your press and profanity in the air.

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Just for a bit of conversation, a single shot rifle might not need crimping considerations like a magazine rifle or revolver. Maybe, watch the overall length so the forward full diameter band doesn't get into rifling or any chamber taper? I've loaded a bunch of finger seated cast bulleys for single shots, and I haven't used my lubrisizer for many years.

Just guessing if it were me, I'd request the mold to drop .367-8, and the heel to be .001-2 larger diameter than the average inner diameter of a few fired brass. I think a good fast powder would be clean burning, so I'd just decap, not automatically clean the brass, use a hand primer, drop the powder charge and push in the bullet. It will hold well enough, it's not a rattle around fall out scenario, just shoot and repeat? That brass would be reserved for that rifle only.

If I were ordering a mold, I really would not prefer to size, and I think it would still be some form of a hand lubing step. The potential is there to improve accuracy, but if it got to labor intensive, there might be a temptation to fall back to the HBWCs? I know .378 Colt revolver bullets can be purchased, but they seem a pain for the .366 groove, though there are moderately priced push through sizing dies that can be had if needed? Fun project, to me this might be a minute of three inch square bouncing target, start at twenty, twenty-five yards, and go get it when it's out too far. Happy New Year all.

Joined: Oct 2016
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 284
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Was just looking through Winfer's Vol 7 on Rook Rifles and can see that it is a twin hook system by the placement of the lever. Is the hammer one piece with the firing pin? Is the forearm held on with a cross bolt? Is that a manually operated extractor via a knob on the right side of the barrel? These last things may indicate an older action.

Joined: May 2016
Posts: 56
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mbatten Offline OP
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Joined: May 2016
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Hello:

This rifle has a separate hammer and a separate firing pin. The forearm is secured with a screw under the forearm - a quarter turn of this screw releases the forearm from the barrel. The extractor is manually operated with identical knobs on both sides of the breech, but the case is mostly extracted as the extractor is cammed back on opening the breech, and is easliy removed with fingers. There is no ejector.

Thanks everyone, for your observations/comments/advice about this rifle. I thoroughly enjoy the quest to find out more about all aspects of its history and how to work up an ideal load. The exchange of thoughts and sharing of your knowledge is very much appreciated!

Happy New Year to all, and here's to brighter days in 2022!

mbatten
Vancouver Island, BC

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