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Joined: Jan 2003
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bellasm Offline OP
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I have thinned Tru-oil down 50/50 with mineral spirits in order to put on a last coat or two on wood. When doing so it provides you more working time before tacking up and the results are super smooth with just hand rubbing. The only thing is I do not want to impart an amber tone on top of the case colors.

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Glad you've been able to sort through stuff and come to a decision. Could you possibly take some before and after pics? And, what will you use to apply it, an airbrush?


Drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup has overflowed .......
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Behlen was the lacquer of choice. Now it is branded Mohawk, same company. I miss Oscar. One of far too many we have lost here over the years. The risk in a hobby filled with old men or wet behind the ears, neophytes. You figure out which group you fall into. I’m getting old early. Dumb Covid.

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bellasm Offline OP
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So, I found out something pretty interesting today. Turnbull does not use lacquer but, a shellac based varnish that is not sprayed but, wiped on. They were using Behlen's Violin Varnish that is basically a blonde shellac and gum additives. Mohawk dropped it from their line once they purchased the company. I am floored that is not a lacquer and that it is wiped on. It looks absolutely flawless when they do it. They said that straight blonde #1 shellac could be used as a substitute but, I don't think that would be as durable as a clear lacquer.
The ideal grade L.C. Smith has some deep relief engraving so, wiping it is out of the question. I will definitely be spraying the lacquer. I do not know if I will use a touch up gun fed by an air brush compressor or a regular gun fed by my upright compressor. Lacquer is supposedly very easy to apply. Here is a great link to another forum where they are discussing applying lacquer to smaller pieces. I found it pretty interesting.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/airbrushing-a-lacquer-finish.14202/

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You will never find a better finish for actions than Formby’s Satin Tung Oi. Wet a lint free piece of cloth or paper shop towel (I prefer paper). Put on a liberal coating but not so much as to run. It will self smooth and contains so little solids it will not fill engraving. Dries in a couple hours to touch and cures in couple days. Very durable. Easily touched up. And is also great for damascus barrels!


Everybody Is ignorant, only on different subjects. —Will Rogers
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Originally Posted by bellasm
So, I found out something pretty interesting today. Turnbull does not use lacquer but, a shellac based varnish that is not sprayed but, wiped on. They were using Behlen's Violin Varnish that is basically a blonde shellac and gum additives. Mohawk dropped it from their line once they purchased the company. I am floored that is not a lacquer and that it is wiped on. It looks absolutely flawless when they do it. They said that straight blonde #1 shellac could be used as a substitute but, I don't think that would be as durable as a clear lacquer.
The ideal grade L.C. Smith has some deep relief engraving so, wiping it is out of the question. I will definitely be spraying the lacquer. I do not know if I will use a touch up gun fed by an air brush compressor or a regular gun fed by my upright compressor. Lacquer is supposedly very easy to apply. Here is a great link to another forum where they are discussing applying lacquer to smaller pieces. I found it pretty interesting.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/airbrushing-a-lacquer-finish.14202/

The touch up gun is all you need. If the compressor that drives it is oiless, so much the better. One less thing to filter. True lacquer is dry almost immediately and is very easy to work with.

Good luck.

Best,
Ted

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Has anyone tried clear ceracoat?

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Originally Posted by Ted Schefelbein
The touch up gun is all you need. If the compressor that drives it is oiless, so much the better. One less thing to filter.

Sounds like a perfect application for an airbrush.


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bellasm Offline OP
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So, I picked up the gun yesterday. A 1926 L.C. Ideal grade with nearly full coverage of case colors. The factory protectant was still on most of the case color. The stock finish was pretty good but a little crazed so I figured it was shellac. I tested it with some alcohol and it indeed is. I then tested the protectant on the case color and it is shellac as well. So, now I am in a dilemma do I respray with lacquer or shellac?

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