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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 349 Likes: 29
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 349 Likes: 29 |
I bought some used Rocky Mountain brass 10 gauge hulls and a number of them will not fit in the breech of my Spanish made (Zabala maybe) 10 gauge. I'm guessing they fire formed in a shotgun with looser tolerances.
I tried using a steel block with a .846 diameter hole, case lube and hammering them into the hole, but that does not seem to work. Anybody have any other ideas on ways to re-size the hulls?
Thanks
On Edit, I updated my post with the correct diameter; I will also mention I do not have most of the tools many of you have and lack the experience to use them even if I had them.
Last edited by Chantry; 05/17/21 11:00 AM.
I have become addicted to English hammered shotguns to the detriment of my wallet.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,522 Likes: 167
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,522 Likes: 167 |
I use a Mec SuperSizer in 10 gauge and a vice die I made on the lathe from a Texan 12 gauge sizing ring and body.
Use plenty of Imperial Sizing Wax.
How many hulls are you trying to size?
Works great
Mike
p.s. is the interference part the body or the rim?
Last edited by skeettx; 05/18/21 03:04 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,444 Likes: 204
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,444 Likes: 204 |
If it were me, I’d split your block on the bandsaw, if there is decent thickness to it. Then, squeeze the part of the brass you want reduced with small bumps in a vise, constantly easing off and turning the brass. It has worked for me, but I’ve never tried something that big.
I would guess it’s a typo, but check your hole size? If you try this idea, the hole you drill should be over sized and you can bring the two halves close enough together by flat grinding the touching surfaces. Good luck working it out.
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 110 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 110 Likes: 21 |
My experience of re-sizing industrial 8G hulls has shown that the process is easier and less likely to damage/malform the brass head if the squeeze is carried out in two or even three steps using steel dies of different internal diameter, reducing from wider to narrower at each stage. Use of an Arbor press of good size also helps reduce the grunt factor. You may be able to get good advice for your problem on the CastBoolits website, notably relating to induced changes in the brass integrity and associated weakening which may arise from resizing procedure.
Last edited by greener4me; 05/17/21 05:30 AM. Reason: typing error.
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 349 Likes: 29
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 349 Likes: 29 |
I use a Mec SuperSizer in 10 gauge and a vice die I made on the lathe from a Texan 12 gauge sizing ring and body.
Use plenty of Imperial Sizing Wax.
How many hulls are you trying to size?
Works great
Mike
p.s. is the interference part the body or the rim? 22 hulls and the interference is in the body of the hull, not the rim. 8 hulls will go almost all the way in with about an inch or less remaining before they stick; 12 hulls will go about half way in before sticking. Two more are in the re-sizing block. Using an arbor press, would multiple passes through the re-sizing block in a short time frame help?
Last edited by Chantry; 05/17/21 10:58 AM.
I have become addicted to English hammered shotguns to the detriment of my wallet.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,445 Likes: 201
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,445 Likes: 201 |
Chantry, I haven't been in this discussion until now, and going back to your initial question you stated you tried a steel block with an .846" hole. You didn't say how this hole was formed, so I'm guessing it was drilled. This isn't a bad start but I suggest the hole must be highly polished and the entrance should be chamfered and also highly polished. Also, in accordance with greener4me's advice, I suggest you make up another block to use first, with a polished hole half way between .846" and the measured diameter of the largest "hull". A hammer is not the best way to force the cases into the dies( blocks), but if you have no other way, you should cushion the heads with a block of wood. However, if you have the ability to bake the "steel block" there is likely to be a vise and drill press in the area, if not an arbor press. A vise, as has been suggested is much better than a hammer( pad the head to protect it). A large drill press spindle moves up and down by a rack and pinion so can be used as a light duty arbor press( be sure to avoid using enough force to damage the gear teeth). So the process would be force the lubed cases into and out of the die with the largest hole, then the one with the next size hole, then the 10 ga. FL sizing die( keep the cases lubed). If they then chamber, I suggest you anneal the cases about half way down the body, to prevent splits when you fire them. Good luck. Mike
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 349 Likes: 29
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 349 Likes: 29 |
Chantry, I haven't been in this discussion until now, and going back to your initial question you stated you tried a steel block with an .846" hole. You didn't say how this hole was formed, so I'm guessing it was drilled. This isn't a bad start but I suggest the hole must be highly polished and the entrance should be chamfered and also highly polished. Also, in accordance with greener4me's advice, I suggest you make up another block to use first, with a polished hole half way between .846" and the measured diameter of the largest "hull". A hammer is not the best way to force the cases into the dies( blocks), but if you have no other way, you should cushion the heads with a block of wood. However, if you have the ability to bake the "steel block" there is likely to be a vise and drill press in the area, if not an arbor press. A vise, as has been suggested is much better than a hammer( pad the head to protect it). A large drill press spindle moves up and down by a rack and pinion so can be used as a light duty arbor press( be sure to avoid using enough force to damage the gear teeth). So the process would be force the lubed cases into and out of the die with the largest hole, then the one with the next size hole, then the 10 ga. FL sizing die( keep the cases lubed). If they then chamber, I suggest you anneal the cases about half way down the body, to prevent splits when you fire them. Good luck. Mike Thanks, I think I will to try this approach since it seems something I can do with the tools I have (although I'll buy an inexpensive arbor press if I can't borrow one). It would be silly to spend more money on tools I almost never need which will cost more than the hulls cost new.
I have become addicted to English hammered shotguns to the detriment of my wallet.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 765 Likes: 18
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 765 Likes: 18 |
Have you considered turning the outsides of the cases down in a lathe? The cases could likely be put on a mandrel and turned down .002” and fit fine. The RMC cases I have seen have very thick walls (why they’re great) that will resist most all at-home resizing efforts.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 514 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 514 Likes: 13 |
If they are thick walled cases as others have stated you can reduce the OD quickly by spinning them in a lathe, drill press or hand drill and polish them down with Emory cloth. Finish with scotch bright. The brass will cut quick so be observant.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,522 Likes: 167
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,522 Likes: 167 |
NO !! Proper tool for the proper job ! https://www.mecoutdoors.com/600-jr-mark-5-partsGet a 47 and a 20 Get the 20 in 10 gauge. I push the hulls into the ring/tube with either a vice or 12 ton shop press. Go slow and use Imperial Sizing Wax. Make a push out rod with a cavity for the internal primer mound to move them out of the die. Mike
Last edited by skeettx; 05/19/21 01:53 PM.
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