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Joined: Dec 2019
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LetFly Offline OP
Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Ok, receiver to stock fit fixed. Now to work on the proud metal issue. I can employ the $500 fix, as in inletting new wood and fitting to the existing metal or I can employ the $50 fix using Acraglas to bring the surface up to the metal. Hmmmm.

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LetFly Offline OP
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OR, how about Damascus' approach to the post (How would you fix this?) on the charred spot on the gunstock wrist? Except I will use actual walnut veneer strips (Damascus' cut and steamed walnut piece is really just a veneer) cut to fit up to the proud metal and tapered to blend back into the original wood. And I agree with his last item in the list. Getting a color match is the hard part. Also agree with Keith, this forum as a DIY source of advice and information is what sets it apart and makes it great. For many of us these tasks are one-off's and we (I) do not have a shop full of pieces to practice on. Try to get right or as right as possible the first time and then live with it.

Last edited by LetFly; 02/10/21 04:54 PM.
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Sidelock
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LetFly,
If you try veneer strips, be sure to let the full thickness into the stock, on the side away from the metal. Otherwise, you will be left with a "knife edge" transition that will be difficult to hide and may "splinter off" in small sections.
Mike

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LetFly Offline OP
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After considering the possible alternatives I have decided that I will go with adding veneer to rebuild the wood in the wrist. These photos show the four patterns I have created. The checkering pattern will flow right up to the border created by the veneer. I will transfer these patterns to the veneer strips. No experience on my end so if you have advice please help out. Pre-glued or plain? Steam to bend to form?

Top and side above sidelocks:
[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

Bottom and below sidelocks:
[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

1 member likes this: Woodreaux
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LetFly Offline OP
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First veneer panel cut. Tedious for certain. Only three more to go. This is pre-glued veneer. Sets at 300 degrees. Test pieces show it should secure to the original wood and hold well.

Top left walnut veneer filler panel
[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

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Looks like a very interesting and challenging project. Since you still have other veneer panels to cut, my suggestion would be to cut them slightly oversize, except where they must perfectly butt into original wood. I think it may be easier to cleanly cut the overhang at the front end and around the inletting, than to fit everything perfectly while clamping and gluing.

I have never worked with pre-glued veneer, so I would also want to do some research to find out if steaming would affect the glue bond. Before I saw that you were using a heat activated pre-glued veneer, my immediate thought was whether you would be better off with an epoxy, or some other wood glue that wouldn't be affected by steaming. Here again, I can't say if steaming will be necessary , or if the veneer is pliable enough to be wrapped around the radius of the wrist without steaming. Of course, the 300 degrees required to activate the glue should also immediately flash off any excess moisture in the veneer.... I think????

I wish you luck, because if this works out well, it could provide a viable option to restocking in some circumstances. Wish I could be more help, but without actual experience doing this, all I have are some random thoughts and considerations for you to chew on.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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You can lightly 'score' the back side of the pieces of veneer and that will allow them to bend more easily around the wrist shape of the stock (and other features too).

Don't go too deep or the score mark(s) will show on the outside when you start trimming it back down.
The closer the score marks are together the closer arc the venier can bend w/o breaking.
Go both ways (criss cross) and the stuff can cover some convex surfaces but not nearly as well as the commercial 3D-Veneer thats made already cross cut on the backside.
The commercial stuff is hard to find and $$.

I wouldn't even use the 300* activated glue that's on the pre-glue on the veneer. Just fit the pieces and use an epoxy or even a simple wood glue is all.
The epoxy might be better as there usually some slight voids to fill in under the wrap around method on an old surface such as a gun stock.
23weyth6Pre-glued veneer does work well on perfectly flat surfaces prepared as such.
If there's a void under the thin veneer (unsupported) there's a very good chance of pushing through it in finishing or even later handling. Then you have another 'fix-it' project within your fix-it project.

Using epoxy to build the surface works well. Then you have to seal it. plain Shellac works . Then use Earth colors to fake the wood grain and match it in. Then 'fix' your art work before the final finish over all. I use a spray enamel very light 'fix' coat over the colored up fake wood. Carefully sand that a bit. Then finish the whole stock.

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LetFly Offline OP
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Thanks, Keith and Kutter. Good advice, appreciated and much to ponder. Here is what I am thinking at this time. Working with both epoxy and pre-glue veneer in practice mode I am leaning toward the high heat pre-glue. Why? In my trial pieces I find that heating the glue to 300 degrees results in the veneer becoming quite pliable and attaching quickly. With epoxy I experienced difficulty in getting the veneer piece to set in place without shifting. Most likely my lack of experience showing here. If the pre-glue does not work out I can use heat to remove the veneer and go to the epoxy. I have cut the pieces to minimize the number of seams. I also intend to seal these seams with thinned epoxy to prevent these from opening through handling.

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LetFly Offline OP
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Making progress. Tools required include two heat set irons, one micro and one larger. Veneer roller, and assorted cutting/trim knives. Steps are: 1) using micro iron tack each veneer piece in place working from a relatively flat section to those with more curvature; 2) using large iron set to 300 degrees work each veneer piece onto the stock wrist, rolling out each section to get a complete bond to the underlying wood; 3) go around the perimeter of each piece checking for complete bond along the edge. Check to eliminate any possible air voids. Veneer is cut a 1mm large on all edges so the next step is to carefully trim all mating edges with metal. My plan is to add a finish to the wood and then add the checkering and bring it up flush with the veneer at the rear on the wrist. I am going to use a thinned epoxy to seal all veneer edges to prevent any lifting during handling.

Adding walnut pre-glued veneer to an overly sanded wrist.

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

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LetFly Offline OP
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Much better look and feel.

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

[Linked Image from jpgbox.com]

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