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Originally Posted by Doug Mann
Sure! Going beyond the obvious wrong choice of wood which looks to have plenty left if you want to reshape to look more proper. I looked at the condition of the engraving, top rib matting and the breech face. The breech face was for all intents perfect with a very few marks on it as was the action flat. I know a skilled laser welder could fill in pts etc. and put some minor marks in it but the cost would have been, to say the least, prohibitive. Actually it looks like it was a closet queen in an earlier life. I'd probably more curious about the bore conditions, wall thickness etc. but that's just me.

I like that wood but hate the shiny sideplates. Assuming the barrels are sound, how much cost to re case color them? Also it would be nice to convert back to a slim forend.

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Originally Posted by Glacierjohn
I’ve always been curious about the hot blue issue on these older side by sides. Is a slow deterioration, till years later they fall apart, is it certain doom or do some guns survive the process?

The hot salts attack the solder. The better the solder joint was to begin with, the slower the damage will occur. And if the solder joints were done perfectly, and you could somehow be certain that all traces of the hot salts were neutralized and rinsed away, then the ribs most likely will not separate. In all likelihood, the alloy of the solder used would also be a factor. Some doubles originally had their ribs and barrels soldered with corrosive flux. Fact is, corrosive fluxes usually do a better job of chemically cleaning and preparing the surface prior to soldering, but the residue can be problematic. The tinning and soldering process should have completely displaced the corrosive flux from the steel during soldering. Then if all of the flux residue is neutralized and flushed away, there will also be no further damage. The problems start when the solder joint is imperfect, which is common in a large joint like we have in shotgun barrels, and some of the corrosive agent remains behind in those imperfect joints to slowly eat away at the solder.

I've read that simply dunking the barrels in the hot salts begins to melt the jojnts. But hot bluing temps are usually around 275 degrees F, which is well below the melting point of soft solder.

I have seen doubles that were hot blued that had obviously survived for some time without falling apart. But if the deterioration is happening between and under the ribs, by the time you know there is a problem, it will most likely be too late to avoid a costly strip, relay, and reblue. Ribs usually seem fine until they pop, and even barrels with imperfect solder joints may ring like a bell.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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Very nice find. If the lack of originality gets to you, there are some good gunsmiths around who can make it right. Just enjoying and shooting it as is is the best course for now

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One set of barrels with two serial numbers and the two lugs have different engraving patterns, composed set.


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Thanks for that answer Keith, I learned something.

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Recoil Rob, the two serial numbers mean that the Lefever factory installed a second set of barrels. This is a common marking for Lefevers that had a second set of barrels installed at a date later than the original manufacture. The different engraving patterns on the lugs are not a mystery. A different engraver engraved the second set, or, maybe the installer of the second set of barrels never saw the first set. My opinion, factory two barrel set. Nothing wrong with the price paid on gunbroker. I would have bought the gun when it was originally sold at a Pennsylvania auction, but I was interested in other items.

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What does the term RED mean, in terms of the collector gun market. I'm suspicious by nature (as are most foxes that survive in today's world-- but some of the dealers schlepping the same refinished junk on GB-- wow- wish there were some code of ethics for such-but how do you enforce it. I remember seeing quite a few "up-graded" Parkers not that many years ago- another reason for shooting Trojan grade Parkers- the frame shape is a dead give-away- of course, other popular at one time Older Winchesters "up-graded"-- saw a pre-1964 M70 at a gun show a few years back drilled for a side-mounted scope- a G&H detachable- seller claimed it was a factory special order-- I checked my Roger Rule book on that-- could not verify his claim of that. You can never have access to enough sources of accurate info if you want to be a "player" in the collectible used gun market--RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Originally Posted by eightbore
Recoil Rob, the two serial numbers mean that the Lefever factory installed a second set of barrels. This is a common marking for Lefevers that had a second set of barrels installed at a date later than the original manufacture. The different engraving patterns on the lugs are not a mystery. A different engraver engraved the second set, or, maybe the installer of the second set of barrels never saw the first set. My opinion, factory two barrel set. Nothing wrong with the price paid on gunbroker. I would have bought the gun when it was originally sold at a Pennsylvania auction, but I was interested in other items.

Thanks for lesson Bill, appreciated, never too old to learn.


My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.
- Errol Flynn
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