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Joined: Jan 2006
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Sidelock
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Interesting that Researcher's first letter dates to October, 1932.
The 3 1/2" Magnum-Ten Super X shell with 2 oz. of shot appeared in the April 1, 1932 Western Ammunition booklet.
https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=304065

I wonder if Mr. Biggs slipped the new Western load in his Flues 2 7/8" chamber 10g?

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Good catch detective Drew:). The plot thickens. Quite possible.

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Well to remember, Drewbie- that the Flues doubles came out prox. 1905 when black powder loads were the norm- using the later smokeless powder loads proved to be the downfall of the Fluesies--My 2E 12 bore was made aprox. 1929- still flawless in action, and easy to open and recock, whether the ejectors are tripped or not. So is my 1933 era Fox-Savage Sterly, 20 ga DT AE 28'. I love Smiths, but so many have had cracked buttstocks in the lock and tang areas, I would tread with caution on any sidelock- box locks seem to be much stronger in some regards- RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Bulk Smokeless loads were in general use by 1895; from the UMC catalog



The Overland Monthly, Oct. 1895 “Smokeless Powder For Shotguns”
http://books.google.com/books?id=Wv0MAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA442&lpg

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re the flues guns...they come in two varieties...the light weight, superbly balanced pre ww1 era guns...and the later, heavier, not so well balanced post war made guns...later guns have heavier frames and barrels...they are easily identified by the additional screw at the bottom of the forend...all are great shooters with appropriate loads...


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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re the nitro special...best deal going in a reliable, american made classic sxs hunting gun...they have two receiver profiles...the pre 1935 look and the later a grade look...

only issue, is fragile firing pins...when dry fired without snap caps, they may break...a special tool is required for replacement...otherwise, great guns...


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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re the flues guns...they come in two varieties...the light weight, superbly balanced pre ww1 era guns...and the later, heavier, not so well balanced post war era guns...later guns have heavier frames and barrels...they are easily identified by the additional screw at the bottom of the forend...all are great shooters with appropriate loads...


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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i will add to the folks who have suggested that you consider an NID Ithaca (the post 1925 guns). they are vintage, but quite strong and able to handle modern ammunition (within reason). 12 gauges were the main portion of production, and they are both more plentiful on todays market, and likely the most reasonably priced of any of the classic american doubles. the vast majority will be modified & full chokes with either 28 or 30" barrels, and weights in the range of 7.25 to 7.75 pounds. Ithaca is unusual in that they marked their guns for chokes using a 0-1-2-3-4 system - with 0 being cylinder bored through 4 being full choked. those markings will be found on the barrel flats nearest the choke.

let us know when you decide what to do....

best regards,
tom


"it's a poor sort of memory that only works backwards."
lewis carroll, Alice in Wonderland
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As far as stock cracking, they all crack, it's just easier to see on an LC. Unless you adapt easily to odd stock dimensions, make sure they fit you. Remington double were only made until 1910 and they all have lots of drop. The LC, Fox and Ithaca NID all use a rotary locking bolt. Good examples of all makes can be found and 12's are a drug on the market now. Have fun!

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Originally Posted By: Walter C. Snyder
Hello Fishsticker and welcome!
I think a good choice for an entry level double gun is the Ithaca Nitro Special. (often advertised as the Ithaca Lefever Nitro Special. The use of the Lefever name can be confused with the pre 1916 Syracuse Lefever-totally different animals) The Nitro is a simple basic gun-very reliable, comes in all the popular gauges, etc AND is quite inexpensive. By that I mean a solid 12 ga, 28 or more likely 30 inch barrels-selling in the neighborhood of 3 to 4 hundred dollars. Not much downside risk. The Nitro is also a "modern" gun in that it can handle current ammo and not plagued with frame cracking, etc.
Good luck on your choice.


What this guy said. An implement, cheap to buy and use, excellent to discover if this a path you want to go down.

Best,
Ted

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