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#584089 11/12/20 05:18 PM
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Hi All, looking for some guidance on how to address a loosening pin in a stock.Appears that this stock developed an internal crack a long time ago and someone pinned the stock.Well that fix lasted a long time.But now seems that the pin has let go a bit.

So, Id like to tackle rectifying the issue again.This will be my first attempt at work like this.I obtained this gun knowing that I need to put some elbow grease into it.And knowing this will be my first time working on a gun in this manner.Its not a high value gun and Id like to get some experience in this.

Please see the pic(s) for reference.

Anyone have ideas on if should add more pins?Replace the existing pin with a larger pin?Other thoughts?

Or can you point me to a video or instructions online?My cursory search didnt turn up much.

Thanks!

And....this wont be an heirloom. Id like it to be functional. For what I got the gun for its not worth it to me to send it out to a pro....it really was meant for me to learn some basic restoration items. Like fixing this stock, refinish the stock, tearing apart the action cleaning/oiling/greasing, removing rust from barrels, re-blueing, etc...itll either be a learning experience for me (I love to get my hands dirty) or if I screw it up...a wall hanger...












Last edited by fishrising; 11/12/20 05:55 PM.
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The most accepted, and invisible when gun is assembled, way to permanently repair this is by using a metal staple and epoxy. Rather than try to explain the process I would suggest you do a search for something like "stock staple repair". There have been threads on various shotgun forums showing this repair with pics. Several on the Pahkah site, AIR.

SRH


"With one foot in the grave ..........and one foot on the pedal, I was born a Rebel" T.P.
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I see no pictures.

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This is the most common type of crack and place you find it. Being so common it is quite a straight forward process, except for the pin that I cant see if it is wood or metal.
To start this is the way I would tackle it but if you ask a dozen other people you will come up with twelve other methods. The first thing I would do is to remove that pin if it is at all possible and not making any more damage in the process. Next clean out the crack using a spirit Acetone etc. or Alcohol, you will also need some adhesive my preferred is slow set epoxy, dental floss. Bicycle inertube, Brass or Stainless Steel to make pins and staple's .Not totally necessary but it is the only thing I have found to successfully clean out cracks and make the passage of the adhesive and dental floss through the crack is a "Piercing saw blade.



When you have cleaned the crack out as far as you can go the dental floss comes in to its own now for pulling the adhesive into the crack as far as it will go, the reason for slow set epoxy now becomes obvious so take tour time. Now using strips of innertube bind the crack tightly so it closes.



After the epoxy has set clean up the wood and fit staples across the crack as in the photograph, the size ant type you use is dictated by where you can fit them without interfering with the guns working.
As for that pin, if you removed it I would replace it with a metal one but remember to file a small groove along its length to allow the adhesive to exit and not build up pressure. My personal choice would be to end the pin a little below the surface and steal a sliver of wood from inside the stocks head that will match in colour and grain then glue into the recess that you left over the pin then sand level with the stocks surface.

Hope this is of some help.

damascus


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Thank you Damascus!

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Very informative and nice tricks of the trade Damascus.

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I like that floss trick


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Because I have done this repair more times than I can remember some things become so automatic that I never think of as important and I have left very simple but important steps out.
To make things a lot easier you should open the crack without making things worse, this is done in two stages, firstly at the full extent of the cracks travel bind the stock in inertube strips to prevent further travel while you are working on the stock. Secondly on the open end of the crack tap in a hobby knife blade to open the crack failing one blade you can add others to improve things, please remember you are not making the Grand Canyon . Though in a lot of cases the need for a stop binding not necessary, Though one thing I have always done after a split repair if I can is at the end of the crack I drill a 1mm hole to put a stop the cracks progress.
I do hope that some of you folks have noted down some of Damascus's tips, because my time on this forum is now on a countdown.

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Always appreciated.

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Sure hope youre not planning an exit from the forum soon, Damascus! I never miss a post of yoursalways great information and we all thank you! God bless!


If we feed our faith our fears will starve, if we feed our fears our faith will starve.
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