doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Leather covered pad

Thanks!

Battle;

If you want to see one of the tools as mentioned by SKB (Steve) send me a PM and I will take a photo of the one I made and send it to you via your email address that you can give me in the PM. I will also send you a photo of the tool disassembled so that you can see how to make one yourself. You heat the rotary tip on the tool with a small amount of heat using a propane torch pencil tip nozzle.

As Steve mentioned pig skin works very well as does kid skin. Buy leather skins that are 1 ounce specified as you desire to have leather that has about the thickness of .020" or 1/2mm. When you receive the skin that you ordered find the portions of the skin that stretch the most to use. Also I usually cut the leather to use from the overall skin where the most stretch is top to bottom of the pad--heel to toe. Use a solution of 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol to soak the piece of leather in to aid in the stretching.

Kindest Regards;
Stephen Howell

Very good work there,looks well shaped too.

Well, the OP's original question was whether he could remove the leather from the pad and reuse it. The direct answer is maybe. If you remove it early in the program it may be possible, if you wait to long (more than a day or so) it's a problem. You may end up tearing pieces of rubber pad out unless as Steve suggested you use a scalpel or some such. All this is predicated on whether you used Barge cement (not the crap that comes in the blue n white tube either) I mean the original in the yellow n red tube that I don't believe is available in the tube any longer.

I will give you my way of marking the amount of pad to remove to allow for the thickness of the leather. BTW, you must fit the pad to the stock close, just as though you are doing a regular pad (I mean close!). I then remove the pad from the stock and put a coating of white liquid shoe polish to the base. Using a something that is reasonably accurate mark a line around the outside of the pad base at the thickness of the leather (.020 to .025) Grind the outside of the pad to that line and be careful not to overgrind. Make sure that you follow the conture of the original pad.

I dropped the leather covered pad in acetone for a few minutes. The leather peeled right off. No damage to the rubber pad. I�ll at least be able to use the pad, not sure about the leather yet.

Thanks Doug for your suggestion.

Just one final thought, you may have already done this but sand the logo off the back of the pad. The logo will show through if it is not removed.

Yes I had the logo removed. I actually did a good job sanding the pad, just st not enough.

When you guys grind these things. What sort of grit belts do you use? I'm assuming you are using a belt sander of some sort.

Any other tricks? I'm taking notes.

I use a disc sander. The grit I think is 220.

This right here .........

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-direct-drive-bench-top-disc-sander-43468.html

........... and a jig.

SRH