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Tamid #576988 08/04/20 08:42 PM
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And I just looked up the Armor Coat spar var. Not a lot of detail found on first pass with Google, but Canadian Tire says it creates a tough plastic finish. That is absolutely what you DONT want, and implies that it is a polyurethane spar var, which you also dont want. CT also brags that it is low VOC, which means that it is, by definition, complete crap. Order some old school spar var from a marine distributor like Jamestown Distributors or Fisheries Supply. Dont screw around with DIY crap from a tire store.

Tamid #576989 08/04/20 08:49 PM
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When you get the proper ingredients together, try this blend:
15% high VOC spar var (no polyurethane)
15% BOILED linseed oil
10% turps (because it smells good and it works)
60% quality mineral spirits (NOT the low odor or low VOC crap); substitute some VM&P naptha if weather is cold or humidity is high

Tamid #576991 08/04/20 09:08 PM
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Replacement,

You don't put a dryer in the solution?


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Tamid #576992 08/04/20 09:14 PM
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By the way the Armor varnish is not polyurethane and I'm surprised they say low VOC because is has a very strong chemical smell. It smells like to old school varnish I used a good many years ago.

Non-the-less it is time to stop playing with sub-standard ingredients.

Last edited by Tamid; 08/04/20 09:15 PM.

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Tamid #576995 08/04/20 09:56 PM
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Depending on conditions, you dont need dryer. It just speeds up the chemical process. Mix small batches of your blend, and add no more than a couple drops of dryer. If you add dryer, discard any excess batch that has dryer. If you skip the dryer, you can keep using the batch of finish for a few days, IF you keep air away from it and replenish a little of the solvent. I wouldnt go more than three days before blending a fresh batch.

Tamid #577000 08/04/20 11:02 PM
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Something is definitely amiss. First, if it's a 1 to 1 to 1 mixture, it should dry just fine by itself. I'm not sure I would trust that linseed oil, get oil intended for woodworking. Second, and this isn't personal experience, but what I've been told, you shouldn't need more than a capful per quart of finish, remember, a lot of your finish is thinner. I just re-read your post, you are using too much linseed oil. Another thing with Japan drier, too much can screw up the curing process, meaning it may not cure.

If I were you, I would scuttle the drier, and get a good wood finish linseed oil, you should be fine with the turpentine. You want equal parts of all components in the finish, don't load it up with oil. It should be a 1 - 1 - 1 mixture. And last, it needs to go on really thin. Your first coat can go on a little wet, give it 15 or 20 minutes to soak in, and then wipe it off with a barely damp rag. You can do the second coat the same, see if any soaks in and then wipe it off. If you're sealing the pores, each coat can be wet sanded till the pores are filled, but don't leave it on the stock heavy, with all the oil, if its too thick, the resins can skin over and slow down the oxidation of the oil underneath, thin coats are your friend.

good luck, Tim

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