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#566507 03/04/20 09:24 AM
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ivans Offline OP
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Is it possibleto reliably solder a sling swivel base to the lower barrel of my o/u double rifle using some 60/40 tin/lead solder? Would it be strong enough?

Thank you for your comments.

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ivans,
That is pretty much the way one would be fit by a factory. Get a base made for soldering onto rifle barrels( ERA, or EAW should have them) and using your favorite spotting compound, scrape the bottom of the base to closely fit the barrel. Wire the base to the barrels using soft iron( "tie") wire, with flux/solder between them, with what ever masking( soapstone, chalk etc) you normally use to lessen cleanup. Most importantly, wire up the barrels, ahead of and behind the base, with rods/wedges to prevent the ribs from coming loose. If you do this prep work and use ordinary care, you should be OK.
Mike

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ivans Offline OP
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Mike,

Thank you for your deep explanation. So, you think 60/40 tin/lead will be enough?

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If you can get it, I find the no-lead plumbing solder sold here (Tin/silver I think) is stronger, lower temperature as well.
Just my opinion.
Do pobachinya.


Dumb, but learning...Prof Em, BSc(ME), CAE (FYI)
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ivans,
Yes, 60/40( or 50/50 or the no lead product mentioned by DmColonial) should work with a good joint.
Mike

Last edited by Der Ami; 03/05/20 06:23 PM.
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ivans Offline OP
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Mike,
Thanks.

DmColonial,
Diakuyu grin
Here the lead solder is not banned yet. So it widely available.
Also there is a lead-free solder. It is SnAgCu 96,5/3/0,5. Would it be strongey and more preferable?


Last edited by ivans; 03/06/20 01:18 AM.
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ivans,
With different lead free solders, be watchful of temperature.
Mike

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ivans Offline OP
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That one is low temperature. I have a concern will it be stronger than the 60/40?

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I feel it is stronger,but I suggest you do a simple break test.
Solder two 6mm? bolt ends to a steel plate, and break the solder by bending.
Your results may be different than mine


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ivans Offline OP
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DmColonial,

Good idea! Thanks.

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