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5 members (Argo44, Jimmy W, bsteele, 2 invisible),
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Forums10
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Most Online1,258 Mar 29th, 2024
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 348 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 348 Likes: 21 |
Picked up a early Parker GH in a 16 bore.Stocks in good shape but the forarm is dark.What the best process to pull some of the oil out.Thanks
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,266 Likes: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,266 Likes: 516 |
1. Acetone soak. Place forend in a small tub, submerge it in acetone, leave it for a few days, a week, etc.
2. Whiting powder
3. Citri strip. Boil water with a few drops of dawn dish soap, place forend in water for around 5 minutes. Pull it out. Let it air dry for around 10 days to two weeks. If there’s still excess oil, use whiting powder or soak in acetone. This method is ideal if your planning on refinishing the forend. It automatically whiskers, raises dents, pulls dirt and oil from the wood, etc.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,726 Likes: 49
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,726 Likes: 49 |
It could be grime from holding it after all these years. What I would do is try cleaning it with soap and water first, you might be amazed.
David
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 348 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 348 Likes: 21 |
Thanks guys keep them coming.
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19 |
Acetone, heat and whiting
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,114 Likes: 91
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,114 Likes: 91 |
Ammonia and cold tap water. A buddy degreased a heavily oil soaked stock with this solution in under an hour. The amount of oil on top of the water was unreal and had I not seen it myself I would not have believed it. More effective than acetone. He said he got this from one of the old Brownells Gunsmith Kinks books.
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19 |
Ammonia and cold tap water. A buddy degreased a heavily oil soaked stock with this solution in under an hour. The amount of oil on top of the water was unreal and had I not seen it myself I would not have believed it. More effective than acetone. He said he got this from one of the old Brownells y Kinks books. I have one that is just causing me major issues, this looks like a great idea. How does it work? Do you submerge the stock? Float it? Ammonia to water concentration? Any insight would be great!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
Does this use regular Household ammonia or does it require the "Strong" ammonia.
Miller/TN I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,703 Likes: 406
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,703 Likes: 406 |
I like the acetone method. But it is a lot easier to do in an oven roasting bag. Although they are plastic, they are proof against acetone, and it is easier to submerse the piece and use a minimum of acetone at the same time.
Last edited by BrentD; 08/11/18 08:00 AM.
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,336 Likes: 388
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,336 Likes: 388 |
I've been an advocate of starting with absorbent materials such as kitty litter, whiting, or toilet paper using gentle heat to bring the bulk of the oil to the surface after first cleaning off any surface grunge with Dawn dish detergent. You can put the wood in a container of kitty litter and leave it in a vehicle parked in the sun for a week as a free long term heating source. I now try to minimize the use of strong organic solvents like acetone or lacquer thinner because wood is composed primarily of cellulose and lignin, and these solvents will break down those components of the wood. Doing nothing will also damage the wood, so you must get out what you can without causing more damage with long harsh organic solvent soaks.
After using the absorbent material to get most of the oil, I proceed to about a 50-50 solution of household ammonia and water. Strong ammonia should be diluted more. Ammonia will saponify both gun and skin oils, i.e., turn it into a water soluble soap. This must then be thoroughly rinsed off because ammonia will damage wood too. A soft scrub brush will help get out embedded grunge and dirt in the pores and in the checkering. After drying, if more oil needs removed, you can then soak in denatured alcohol before proceeding to the acetone or lacquer thinner, keeping those soaks short. This method also means there is much less oil to contaminate the more expensive solvents.
I don't believe you can ever get all of the oil out of a heavily oiled stock, and it will continue to migrate to the surface for months after cleaning. So it is best to do any glue repairs or finishing as soon as the wood is dry.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
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