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Joined: Jan 2002
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I have an English gun that is on face but loose on the bolt. It will not close on a piece of typing paper but the lever is to the left and there is up and down movement.

I took the bolt out and it is obviously worn. I know the barrel lumps are soft but the underbolt is difficult to cut with a file. The welder can lay in either material that is about 60 Rockwell or a bead that is soft. It seems to me the the hard material may be too hard. The bolt engagement has about a 15 degree taper and I'm thinking soft material for the bolt may be the way to go.

And yes the welder is an experienced expert doing firearm restoration. He just needs to know what I want.

Thoughts appreciated.

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Joined: Mar 2012
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An interesting question for those who like to tinker with old guns.
In gunsmithing by Dunlap, he says he uses the 3.5% nickel-steel rod for most gun welding jobs. I don't think the weld is too hard so may be easier to re-shape amd fit, could building up the bites be an easier option ?. I'm not an expert on this so hope someone will come along with some info. There's very little written on subjects like this, if anyone can help I'm sure a lot of others will appreciate it.
Good luck.


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Maybe I am missing something here but if the bolt is hard steel and the lump's slot is soft, how did the bolt wear?


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Rather than welding the underlug why not install a wear plate similar to the one Parker adopted? Simple and replaceable.


When an old man dies a library burns to the ground. (Old African proverb)
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Always one in every crowd.....thinking all the time aren't you? wink


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

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This an example of an easy task that someone is going to mess up by welding.

After you weld up this locking bolt you have to mill it or file it down to the correct angle (and it is a small angle) to have it to fit into the rear lump at the proper angle as it was originally made. Of course you will have to do that even if you build up the surface of the locking bolt as I do and for that matter others who do the same. Most welders (that does not include expert micro TiG and lazer welder), cannot weld up the surface area of a locking bolt without having the filler metal flow over into the edges of the locking bolt--thereby spoiling the work of the task at hand.

Typically it is found that the inside width of the locking bolt that has worn away (on English guns) is about .375" wide. Therefore I mount the locking bolt in a table vise on a vertical mill and cut a halfmoon size area away from the forward area of the worn portion of the locking bolt. (it should be noted that both the rear lump and the locking bolt surface had likely worn somewhat, but the locking bolt is easier to built up the surface than the lump). I usually cut the half moon size slot about .035" deep. Then insert a half moon shaped disc of mild steel into the cut away slot an silver braze that in place. If you do this task properly, it is difficult to detect where the metal of the original locking bolt and the added disc meet, and both pieces of metal have the same hardness.

Then with a no. 2 or 3 Swiss pattern or American fine pattern file with safe edges I shape the newly added disc of mild steel to the right angle and gently fit it to the rear lump.

Last edited by bushveld; 04/10/17 03:25 PM.
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Thanks bushveld. Very helpful. I'm trying to think this through so as not to make a mess.

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It seems logical that soft metal on hard metal will wear the soft faster. However, if "grit" embeds in the soft metal, the hard metal may get "lapped" by the soft. All bearing joints are highly dependent on proper and clean lube for wear resistance.

DDA

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The gun was very dirty. I guess that may be why it wore the way it did. Thanks to everyone for the help.


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