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#472432 02/17/17 02:43 PM
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Tamid Offline OP
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It has been discussed a method to tighten up the action is to put a shim around the hinge pin or in the lug. I am wondering what people do to keep it in place. I have found after a few openings and closings it starts to move out of place. The glues I have tried don't hold.

I was also wondering instead of a shim if anyone has tried steel acra-glass? I'm not sure under the recoil if it would stand up or not.


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Loctite Black Max is the best I've found. To give the super glue come elasticity they added microscopic particles of rubber. Works fairly well but still leaves a lot to be desired. I add the shim to the hook. All pieces must be ultra clean and the inside of the shim should be scratched up to help adherence. I think solder would be the best answer but usually the shim is so thin it's very difficult to do (at least for me).


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J.B. Weld is suppose to have the strength of solder but is an epoxy (?). Comes two tubes in a packet and is mixed in equal parts. Caution it can only be removed by abrasive action or heat over 600 degrees.

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Stan successfully followed a suggestion in his BSS thread wherein he detailed issues in seeking repair for his loose action. The suggestion was to shim with aluminum tape used in the HVAC industry. It is adhesive backed and comes in various thicknesses. Link is below. Gil
http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbt...0725#Post470725

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The HVAC aluminum tape worked like a charm, Tamid. It has an adhesive on one side, requiring you to pull off a backing before applying. Clean the hook thoroughly with alcohol before putting it on, then take a 3/8" dowel or something else about that size and press the tape firmly into the hook. I cut mine oversize than trimmed it with an Exact knife. you can hardly see it there and it doesn't move. My tape is .003" thickness. Lasting good so far. Be sure to lube it well before putting barrels back on.

Credit to bushveld for the idea.

SRH

Last edited by Stan; 02/17/17 09:42 PM.

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Tamid Offline OP
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The tape sounds like an interesting solution. Thanks.


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Is it possible in some doubles to rotate the pin?

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It's seldom the hardened pin is worn but is usually the soft hook.


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I don't personally know, but have heard it said that it is at least possible in Winchester's Model 21......where the friction part of the hinge pin is actually a bushing that sleeves over an inner transverse pin.

One might get away with it for one partial rotation ??(assuming it doesn't shift with use)?? but the correct solution, I was told, would be to replace the worn bushing with one of slightly larger diameter. This was passed onto me some years ago by an employee of CSMC. I can't vouch for the accuracy of it......but have always been curious if it is true.

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Tamid I have done this type of “Shim The Hook” repair for many years, after many methods tried over the years I found that the best method of fixing the shim for me is Solder but not just any solder.
Firstly, if I shim a gun to improve matters for another person rather than for myself I always use a brass shim stock, so it can easily be spotted if the gun where to change hands.
For my own use I use steel shim stock.
The solder I prefer for this work is electrical/electronic grade 60% Tin 40% Lead SOLDER PASTE it is easy to use and makes no mess at all by running out of the joint.
Clean the hook and the shaped shim I use 1000 grade wet and dry abrasive paper then degrease, apply the solder paste to the barrel hook (the solder paste is a mixture of fine particles of solder in a resin flux paste) then fit shim. Keep the shim in place using fine wire, clean any paste you may have spread to other parts then heat the area gently. Now the melting point of the paste is normally no higher than 140 degrees and just to make sure I leave a very small amount of paste close to the shim so I can see when the solder in the paste starts to flow then stop heating, though always heat the hook metal so the heat travels to the shim not the other way around.




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