|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
0 members (),
309
guests, and
5
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,522
Posts545,769
Members14,419
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 40
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 40 |
Weatherby Athena came in my shop for refinishing,What in Gods name do them guys in Japan use on those stocks, Yet alone trying to remove it <I tried Aircraft paint remover, along with lots of other stippers,epoxy stippers that is , I have I the shop, and none of it evens softens the finish to scrape it ,I have found nothing short of sand blasting email me m jlyons1@comcast.net
Lyons Gunsmithing
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,405 |
Likely careful sanding will be the only way.
B.Dudley
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195 |
I feel sure that your stock finish is very likely to be an industrial form of Melamine twin pack. I have found if normal strippers won't work I resorted to an industrial Vandal Paint stripper. Though over here it can be difficult to purchase because of its toxicity, things may be different on your side of the water when you come to purchasing industrial products.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 831 Likes: 10
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 831 Likes: 10 |
You can remove it with a heat gun, just be very careful not to scorch the wood. If you set it to low temp you can get it to soften up and then carefully scrape it off....do it in sections and take your time, finish sand after.
CJ
The taste of poor quality lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.........
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 320 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 320 Likes: 4 |
Sheephunter,
sent you an email with something that might work....
WBLDon
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 40
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 40 |
Don ,I ordered stipper from rockland,although I removed the raise cheekpiece and did a little experiment,I put Jasco epoxy remover on the piece ,wrapped it in waxedpaper with the wax side toward the wood several wrap so the air don't dry out stipper,seal ends, place it in freezer for couple hrs,after removing the piece ,the finish scraped off easily with a small piece of auto windshield glass,for the complete stock I will try rockland first
Lyons Gunsmithing
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,851 Likes: 150
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,851 Likes: 150 |
I generally just scrape the entire stock down to remove the old finish. A straight blade knife, extremely sharp will shave off any finish in nice clean curls right down to the wood,,or into it if you want too. Handled right you can do the curves, even the tight ones w/o any damage to the wood. Direction means little, you can sweep accross the wide areas in different directions as is confortable. Back up the blade with your thumb(s) for extra control in both blade depth of cut and making any vibration disappear.
Plus it's a fast process and leaves the wood surface smooth and ready for minimal sanding needed to continue No mess either.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 40
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 40 |
Bought a smal detail sander,with triangle pads ,works great around grip caps and checkering,start with 100 grit ,finish with 320
Lyons Gunsmithing
|
|
|
|
|
|