doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Hunter Arms 0 grade 20 gauge ejector

I inherited a Hunter Arms 0 grade 20 gauge ejector with 30 inch F/F barrels. The gun is rough and needs to be restored or moved on. The mechanics of the gun are fine and I believe that the stock is sound but needs refinishing and the checkering recut. There has been rust and some light pitting on the barrels, receiver, and well nearly everything however the bores are fine. I wonder if the cost of restoring this gun is worthwhile on a finical basis? What would be the approximate value of this gun appropriately restored?

jlb

Some O grade Smiths, whether ejector or extractor guns, had Twist barrels. How are the barrels marked on your O grade? Could we see some fotos pls. I recommend either Buck Hamlin in MO, or Jerry Andrews in WVA--

All 20 gauge L.C. Smiths had steel barrels (except for one that had a Damascus barrel and London Steel barrel) For an 0 grade they should be London Steel.
A 20 gauge ejector gun with 30" barrels is not common and would bring a higher price than one with the common 26" barrels.

Restored value is 60% of one that was not restored in 60% condition.
Example; If your gun is evaluated at 30% and you have it refurbished it would only be worth 60%.

The finish on an 0 Grade would be shellac, the checkering would be flat topped not pointed. If it were mine, I would look again at the checkering, clean it with alcohol and a toothbrush, then clean the stock with the same. Apply a few coats of amber shellac staying out of the checkering. Then I would put some shellac on a toothbrush and lightly go over the checkering.

On the metal finishes, use 0000 steel wool with some oil on it and lightly go over the rusted areas. It will come off it like you said it is lightly rusted.

Since you inherited this gun, I would not refinish it, as it shows how it was used in the past and why take that away from it, just clean it up.

David,
Your comment about checkering sent me to the safe. My favorite in the "stable" is an OE 20, untouched, and has pointed checkering! Being curious I pulled out both my OO's, a 20 extractor gun, and a OOE 16--both original-- and both have pointed checkering.
I'll have the OE 20 at Sanford for sporting clays--remind me to show it to you.
Dick

Here is a so so photo of the gun that really does not show the pitting. The serial # 6187E

BTW these are steel barrels.

And 60% of 30% is what? Your math doesn't compute.

That gun doesn't look as bad as I envisioned from your original post. I tend to agree with JDW on the best path to pursue, but depending upon the extent and depth of any pitting, a lot of people would go whole hog and do a total refinish or restoration. However, you would forever lose the wear and character that was put on the gun by your relative. And there is a big difference between refinishing and restoration. A good restoration would make the gun worth more, but might cost as much as the gun is worth, or more. A refinish... especially a poor refinish... might actually make this gun worth less than it is right now. But a good and proper clean-up done by someone who has the tools and ability could make your gun look much more presentable.

I have not removed the buttstock from an L.C. Smith for at least 10 years, but as I recall, disassembly to properly refinish the wood is tricky and requires proper tools and techniques to get the top lever shaft aligned with the trigger plate upon reassembly. Your screws look mostly unmolested, and you would need good gunsmithing screwdrivers to make sure they remain that way. Just removing the lockplates when they are closely inletted and stuck in the wood can do damage if you do it wrong. Cleaning the wood with alcohol can remove all of the old shellac right down to bare wood, and it is extremely difficult to apply new finish with the metal still attached to the stock. If you did end up removing all of the old finish, steaming out most of the dents would certainly improve the appearance if you could avoid the temptation to improperly sand the wood. But on the other hand, slopping a bit of shellac on the metal will not cause irreversible damage. I have no clue what your abilities or gunsmithing experience may be. I just know that a lot of people with good intentions end up doing more harm than good. Often times, less is more.

Dick, the checkering on my O grade and Ideal are still I believe considered flat top and 18 lpi, compared to the 00 and Field at 16 lpi.
Here is a picture of my 16 ga. 0 grade that some previous owner was proud of it and carved his name in the stock. I left it there for posterity.
I left the dings and scratches as I found it just cleaned the wood and moved the old shellac around it.


Runs, what I was trying to say that a restored gun that is now in 100% condition as it left the factory is only worth 60% in restored condition.

As to what Keith stated, very true if you do not have the ability to take one apart.
I made it a point in the very beginning to know how to do this and the first one was hard to put back. Now, I take them all apart when I get them, mostly for a good cleaning and some refinish if needed.
As to the alcohol, you would have to apply it very heavily to take the shellac off. A clean lint free cotton cloth wet with alcohol will remove old dirt and if done right will re-amalgamate the shellac in areas that were sparse.

jlb, yours was ordered with a POW grip, not something you see much compared to the capped pistol grip of most.
Clean it up and enjoy it.
The chambers would be 2 1/2" and I would shoot the appropriate shells through them. Removing any pitting removes precious metal especially if near the breech.

looks like a nice family heirloom.....have it lightly cleaned up and take it hunting a couple times a year....