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#365747 05/05/14 11:26 PM
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Sidelock
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I use Art's Belguin blue.....
My question is this. Since your can't card the space between the ribs and water gets in there, what do you do?

Sure it drains out through the weep hole. And yes you can dip bluing in the hole if you wish. And you can dry the barrels with with heat and inject oil there, but of these things seem to be insufficent in my mind, yet many people use Belgiun blue or other water blue. I remember the late Mr Thredwell prefered it.

What say you?

jerry

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mc Offline
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plug the holes and use a heat gun to dry it.

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Note sure how effective it is, but I inject water displacing oil into the weep hole with a plastic syringe. Then I let the oil run out and hope I took care of any water that is in there and hopefully minimized future rust issues.

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This type of quandary shows how an old obsession creates avoidable problems.

Darne solved the issue decades ago by abolishing the bottom rib. Alex Martin went one further and abolished both ribs.

It takes some courage to do away with the bottom rib, but in the cases where I have seen it done, it simplified maintenance and improved the balance.

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If you put any oil in that void you have created a large problem for whoever is going to reblue it in the future. It will migrate through pin holes in the solder and create a mess for the next guy, been there had to deal with that. Plug the weep hole or holes with shot, and if you have leaks, when you are done pull the shot and heat the barrels with a heat gun to evaporate the water. If the barrels were properly tinned, and a non corrosive flux used the barrels will be protected in that void. MKII

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In my opinion, the carded black rust on the outside and uncarded black rust on the inside are the same thing. The key is proper rinsing and/or neutralization, then drying, of the inner void.

Shooting oil in there might not hurt either. Sure, it causes problems in a rust blue, but leave that for the next bozo to worry about in 50 years.

And, as Mark has pointed out, the inside should have an added tin coating and rosin residue to help fight corrosion.

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I had a friend that had a tinned the exterior of the barrel by dipping it in a tank of molten tin. He claimed that is how Parker did it. He may of known sense his grand father worked there.
bill

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One thing to keep in mind when using Belgian Blue is that it contains a small amount of mercury and if the item you are bluing has any gold inlay you will get a thin coat of mercury amalgamated to the surface of the gold, turning it to a very bright silver color.


Sam Welch
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mc Offline
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mr schodlatz,i would think the cleanup would take forever, also bluing after having tin allover the barrel might cause the blue to come out less than satisfactory.tin the ribs, tin the barrel where the rib contacts,check for leaks plug any weep holes,use a heat gun to dry or you will be cleaning up and starting over.mc

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Why not leave the weep holes open, bring the barrels up to say 250 or so for a while to make sure the void is dry, and shoot a bit of linseed into the weep hole? Tilt the barrels around to get a good coat of linseed over everything inside, and heat to dry. This is an old method for getting rid of "ghosts" that seem to be of the benign type. It should add some protection as well.
I see no problem with plain old gun oil either. I've had trouble bluing on guns with a minor pinhole in otherwise well soldered ribs. Both due to water and to oil. The oil I got rid of by injecting acetone through whatever access was easiest. I think I've had worse problems with the water. The only answer I found to work on that was making the weep hole larger, and using twisted paper towel to act as a wick, getting the water out more quickly after a boil.
Hope this helps somewhat.
Jim

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