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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 87
MikeV Offline OP
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Sidelock

Joined: Feb 2008
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Good morning folks,
I have rings and a scope for my drilling and now I need to solder them together. I have done lots of soldering in the past but never to a scope tube. Is there anything unique that I should be aware of? As I think about it my concern is that the heat on the scope will effect the seals. Any advice and tips to help me along will be appreciated.
Thank you all.
Mike

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 87
MikeV Offline OP
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Sidelock

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Oops!!! Claw NOT clay mounts.Sorry for the fumble fingers.
Mike

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I'm a little confused here. If you have rings, why do you need to solder anything to the scope? German claw mounts which were soldered to the scope tube die not use rings, they used half rings, and the scope tubes were made of steel, which is not often the case with modern scopes.

Lastly, if you do decide to solder the scope tube, in my opinion all the optics should be removed first and replaced after the operation is complete.

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MikeV Offline OP
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Sorry for the confusion. I have half rings that I want to mount on a steel tube scope as I have seen on several older German firearms.I am wondering how it was done in the past so that I could try it.
Thanks,
Mike

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Mike V,
I watched my friend Walter Grass do this many times. You have to fit the rings to the scope and bases,bore sight the scope(held to the rifle in the rings by a chord), scribe witness marks on the scope tube/objective bell,take the scope apart carefully( wrap lenses, etc in tissue and store carefully)remount the scope in the rings(this time held by soft iron wire, such as "tie wire")lined up with witness marks and the ring/scope joint wiped with paste solder(combo flux/solder particles),heat rings/scope tube with a torch until solder flows,add solder from solder wire if necessary. Let everything cool,clean excess solder off, polish, blue. Send reblued tube and stored parts to scope specialist for reassembly.Note, this is only for steel scope.Epoxy might hold an alu. scope,but I doubt it. I only saw alu scope mounted in full rings or rail.
I have photos, but am too dumb to post them.
Mike

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Posts: 87
MikeV Offline OP
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Mike,
Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. Don't know yet if I'll try it as it sure seems very critical work and I don't know if my old hands and eyes, combined with lack of experience would allow for success. On the other hand, I have all the parts and pieces just begging to be put back into service :-).
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Mike

Joined: May 2008
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Originally Posted By: Der Ami
Mike V,
I watched my friend Walter Grass do this many times. You have to fit the rings to the scope and bases,bore sight the scope(held to the rifle in the rings by a chord), scribe witness marks on the scope tube/objective bell,take the scope apart carefully( wrap lenses, etc in tissue and store carefully)remount the scope in the rings(this time held by soft iron wire, such as "tie wire")lined up with witness marks and the ring/scope joint wiped with paste solder(combo flux/solder particles),heat rings/scope tube with a torch until solder flows,add solder from solder wire if necessary. Let everything cool,clean excess solder off, polish, blue. Send reblued tube and stored parts to scope specialist for reassembly.Note, this is only for steel scope.Epoxy might hold an alu. scope,but I doubt it. I only saw alu scope mounted in full rings or rail.
I have photos, but am too dumb to post them.
Mike
Great post, Mon Ami- and like me, you are "Dumb" right- like a Fox is dumb-- Just looked at 4 fine Austrian and German drillings today- one 12 gauge with 70mm and 7x57, also a 16 with 65mm and 7x57- both with Hensoldt Diactyl 6-`12 scopes- and two other made in Ferlach- either with Krupp or Boehler special gewehrlaufstahl-- Ja- gut!!


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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RWTF,
If you buy one, make it the 16ga.A 12ga drilling is too big and heavy for my taste.Hensoldt scopes are great and 7x57R is a great caliber.
Mike

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Originally Posted By: Der Ami
RWTF,
If you buy one, make it the 16ga.A 12ga drilling is too big and heavy for my taste.Hensoldt scopes are great and 7x57R is a great caliber.
Mike
Just saw and examined four drillings for sale today- three have Hensoldt vari-power scopes, with the "two-=piece rail mountings- that's my term for the two piece rails set in place on the claws, with set screws that allow you to move the scope for your own eye relief- the one I like best is a 16 with a 7x57mm- cocking indicators- Krupp Special Gewehr Lauf Stahl, side green style safety, horn trigger guard, cheek[piece, bullet trap, all the bells and whistles--three of the four are 16, the other two were not marked as to the rifle cal.-- eyeball says either 7x57 or possibly 6.5x54-- the last one is a 12- with 2&3/4" chambers, Boehler Antitinit steel barrels, Hensoldt scope, Greener side safety, cocking indicators, very slight hairline crack in left barrel side jaw cheek of the buttstock-- all have tapered forearm with roller latch releases, no schnabels on the forearm tip, and the std 7/8" or possibly 3/4" wide sling swivels, horn or bakelite buttplates with engraved screw heads, craftsmanship like on a Rolex or a Steinway. I am tempted to buy one- and the 16 with the 7x57 looks like the "pick of the litter"- will advise, and if I do, will PM you some fotos in detail--


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Originally Posted By: Run With The Fox Mike [/quote
Just saw and examined four drillings for sale today- three have Hensoldt vari-power scopes, with the "two-=piece rail mountings- that's my term for the two piece rails set in place on the claws, with set screws that allow you to move the scope for your own eye relief-


In my experience, the "set screws" are actually screws running completely through the rails, requiring holes to be drilled in the rails for their placement, and are therefore not adjustable for eye relief without drilling additional holes.

In any case, claw mounts have a limited amount of fore and aft adjustment, since moving the scope too far forward in the mount will prevent it from being tipped forward far enough for removal.

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