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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 87
MikeV Offline OP
Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 87
Folks,
I just purchased a JP Sauer drilling the came with a Frankonia 4x32 scope.
I have not seen a scope with a single turret before and would like some help in undrestanding how to use and adjust it.
I know this sounds stupid but it would be more stupid of me to try to play around with it without checking first with all of you experts. Thank you.
Mike

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 415
Sidelock
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I have a Zeiss-Jena that has one turret. The center screw adjusts elevation and the outer ring adjusts windage IIRC.


Anything Worth Doing is Worth Overdoing
Joined: Apr 2012
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 180
the (old)single turret scopes only have elevation setting (the turret)
these scopes are fitted to the rifle by claw mounts.
on the rear mount (foot) you should have a large screw-head on either side - here you set windage by loosening one screw and turn in the other until you have center-line.
Then tighten up and try on a target.
if necessary, adjust again.
Cumbersome but will hold center once its adjusted.

Best regards from England
Günter
NRA Life 1974



an old Zeiss Jena scope (single turret) which I use on a HW97K air rifle with
EAW (Ernst Apel) swing off mounts - yours might look different but the principle is the same



Last edited by Gunter; 03/08/13 02:23 PM.
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Mike V,
Gunter is correct. Be advised that depending on if the screws are threaded into the top part or bottom part of the rear ring,the screw may either "push" or "pull" the scope. This can be confusing.There should be witness marks on the back side.By watching the marks while turning the screw, you can see which way it works.If there are no marks, they are easy to make. If you don't want to mark the mount,you can mark it on two pieces of tape.Also take the scope off to adjust it, then put it back on (I don't know why-that's just how Walter did it).
Mike

Last edited by Der Ami; 03/08/13 04:32 PM.
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MikeV Offline OP
Sidelock
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Thank you all for your help! There is a screw on the rear mount and a witness mark so I am all set.
I learn more from this forum than any other. I most especially appreciate the respectful and kind sharing of knowledge with those of us yet learning.
Again. Thank you.
Mike

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 70
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Having done this a few times, (also on a JP Sauer Drilling with 1 turret), can I suggest; make quite small changes and treat the screw slot like a hand on a clock face. So go from 12 O'Clock to 2 O'Clock, then test fire, then 2 to 4, and test fire again. You should get a feel for the amount of travel produced by each adjustment at the target end.

You also have to back off the corresponding screw if winding in. And take up the difference if winding out. Also, make a note in your reloader's log which direction the RH screw wound clock-wise sends the POI with each "2-hours" of adjustment. That way, when you come back to this rifle in a year's time, you'll know just what you did successfully last time, rather than waste ammo "reinventing the wheel".

Make sure the screw driver is a good fit both in length and that it sits deep in the slot and fills the whole slot width so you don't slip and mar the bluing. File to fit if necessary. Lastly, think about what you'll need to use to hold the rifle firm at the range while you do all this. A couple of sandbags, for instance, beats crushing it against a rough surface.

It's an OK system once it's set up. It's not a bad idea to find a load the gun likes first and then adjust the mount as different bullets will have different POI's both vertically and even horizontally and you don't want to be adjusting the mount too often.

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Sidelock
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 70
Having done this a few times, (also on a JP Sauer Drilling with 1 turret), can I suggest; make quite small changes and treat the screw slot like a hand on a clock face. So go from 12 O'Clock to 2 O'Clock, then test fire, then 2 to 4, and test fire again. You should get a feel for the amount of travel produced by each adjustment at the target end.

You also have to back off the corresponding screw if winding in. And take up the difference if winding out. Also, make a note in your reloader's log which direction the RH screw wound clock-wise sends the POI with each "2-hours" of adjustment. That way, when you come back to this rifle in a year's time, you'll know just what you did successfully last time, rather than waste ammo "reinventing the wheel".

Make sure the screw driver is a good fit both in length and that it sits deep in the slot and fills the whole slot width so you don't slip and mar the bluing. File to fit if necessary. Lastly, think about what you'll need to use to hold the rifle firm at the range while you do all this. A couple of sandbags, for instance, beats crushing it against a rough surface.

It's an OK system once it's set up. It's not a bad idea to find a load the gun likes first and then adjust the mount as different bullets will have different POI's both vertically and even horizontally and you don't want to be adjusting the mount too often.

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Posts: 87
MikeV Offline OP
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Sidelock

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Kiwi,
Thank you for sharing your experience. It will be very helpful!
I appreciate your help.
My best, Mike

Joined: May 2011
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I would suggest setting it for your most used load--which might actually be a total of one, in some cases, and then NOT moving it for additional loads, but simply remember where they strike. Reason...the adjusting screw can get a bit loose and too easy to move. Had a Sauer sidelock which had a screw that turned too easily and once in a while, the shot would be off. Inspection showed that the screw had been turned somehow or another. I guess you could also put some locking compound on the screw to keep it from moving. Good luck! Steve

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Sidelock
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Steve,
It sounds like you needed to tighten the offside screw against the one that comes loose.If both screws are tight, they shouldn't come loose, because this takes the "slack" out.
Mike

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