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Joined: Feb 2004
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Sidelock
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As Rocketman mentioned earlier, a rubber Cratex abrasive is a very simple and effective way to go. It isn't messy like using wood dowels or aluminum rods, etc., with oil based abrasives (Clover compound). You can see what you're doing much easier.

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I've done it with a leather disc affixed to a dowel held in a drill press. An X-Y table is needed to get the precise overlapping.

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Did the leather work gnomon? I've even thought of cutting out small disks of 400 wet/dry and use a cohesive to stick them to a dowel rod.


Practice safe eating. Always use a condiment.
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Too much work JRB.

If you haven't used a Cratex to do it, you're doing it the messy and hard way. They are easily cut with a knife or saw and dressed with a grinding wheel dressing stick quickly to shape or size.

Last edited by Chuck H; 12/12/12 11:54 AM.
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One caveat. Depending on what kind of abraisive you use and if you are using a drill press, it is easy to over do it and make gouges where you just wanted those swirling patterns. At least, my drill press makes it somewhat hard to monitor the down pressure.

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Brownell's sells or used to sell small round steel wire brushes with a stem to fit a drill or mill to jewel with. Worked best with a drill press with a fixture to hold the piece being jeweled.

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The wire brushes provide a better finish on round surfaces. A piece of heat shrink tubing will prevent the brush from flaring to much and still allow the brush to conform to the shape.Cratex rods work well on flat surfaces.

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Originally Posted By: J.R.B.
Did the leather work gnomon? I've even thought of cutting out small disks of 400 wet/dry and use a cohesive to stick them to a dowel rod.


Works very well. I think this is the classic technique. The leather acts as a lap and holds the abrasive.

You'll need to do a few test runs so that each pattern is the same intensity but that is a relatively easy skill.

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I've used abrasives and brushes, and prefer the brushes. It is very important to have some way to index the piece uniformly as the work progresses. Trying to eyeball is is a recipe for really ugly results.

Methods aside, engine turning that is done on parts that rub (e.g. the bolt in a M12 pump or the sides of the breech block on an O/U are predestined to show signs of wear or even obliteration. You can re-jewel, but it's going to happen all over again. I prefer to do it right the first time and then let tthe normal wear accumulate as a sign of a gun I enjoy using.

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