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Apr 27th, 2024
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Joined: Mar 2007
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murphy Offline OP
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I took my Ithaca Lewis class serial number 104578 (1904 I think), 28in fxf Beavertail Forearm to trap field 16yd line. I was using Polywad Vintiger double wide #8. I was alternating between right and left barrell and the back trigger stayed back, I assume it is broke. The gun seems to be in very nice condition both wood and bore, it actually looks so nice I think it has probably been redone, I also wonder if the beavertail is an addition since I would think that a gun this age would probably have been splinter forarm. Your thoughts on fixing it, (cost etc.). I have had a similar problem on a Lefever live pigeon gun (no safety), had it fixed and seems fine now but I am wondering if I should stay away from older guns since I do want to use any gun I buy. Thanks

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Whenever you are using a mechanical device that is 100+ years old - be it guns, cars, or anything else - the chances are that parts may fail. Sounds like the trigger return spring may have given up the ghost.


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I would come nearer thinking the sear spring is what broke. The trigger itself doesn't normally have a return spring, being returned by the sear. If the trigger has a spring at all it is normally very light & pushes the trigger to the rear to keep it against the sear leg without slop. I have never owned a Lwis, only Crass & Flues but this is a common set-up.


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Originally Posted By: murphy
I took my Ithaca Lewis class serial number 104578 (1904 I think), 28in fxf Beavertail Forearm to trap field 16yd line. I was using Polywad Vintiger double wide #8. I was alternating between right and left barrell and the back trigger stayed back, I assume it is broke. The gun seems to be in very nice condition both wood and bore, it actually looks so nice I think it has probably been redone, I also wonder if the beavertail is an addition since I would think that a gun this age would probably have been splinter forarm. Your thoughts on fixing it, (cost etc.). I have had a similar problem on a Lefever live pigeon gun (no safety), had it fixed and seems fine now but I am wondering if I should stay away from older guns since I do want to use any gun I buy. Thanks


I will have to look at mine. I have a 16ga Lewis model and I thought there was a trigger return spring. I'll look and reply tonight after work.

Last edited by KWill; 07/27/12 09:10 AM.
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I would try cocking it [ open the gun ] with pressure applied to keep the trigger forward. If it cocks then you have a sear or trigger spring problem. If it doesn't cock then there's a problem with the cocking lever or something not allowing the sear to engage - like dirt. Most of the time I've found something in the notch not allowing the sear to engage. Hope this helps. Paul

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I recently had that same problem on an English box lock box bird gun. It was the sear spring. The fix was about $150.00 but the spring had to be made and the reassembly was difficult for a smith that works on this stuff all the time because it is all under compression.


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Ithaca Lewis models have 2 things that I find make them vulnerable. The first is the extremely close fit of the safety trigger block that blocks the trigggers from moving. Dirt, well adhered to the trigger or trigger block can be enough to keep the trigger from pushing the sear. The second is one I've found multiple times and that is when someone takes the gun apart and fails to get the floor back in properly. The safety button and attached slide descends down to engage a T shaped trigger block. The T shaped block has a tiny slot that the descending portion of the safety lever must fit into. I've found this severely bent in 4 of 5 Lewis's I've worked on.

Until the gun is taken apart and thouroughly checked it's hard to say what's wrong. I have never encountered a broken spring in a Lewis.

Last edited by Harry Sanders; 07/27/12 09:16 PM. Reason: Spelling correction Tanqueray on my mind! Gin Gun

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