doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Fox ejector guide pin question

First a short introduction. I am a gunsmithing student at Montgomery Community College in Troy, NC. One of the projects I am working on is a Ansley H Fox CE grade. It does have numerous issues but the one I am working on right now is to repair the ejector guide pins.

When I received the gun, both of the pins were broken off in the monoblock. I successfully removed those. I now need to remove the other side of the pin from the ejector. On this, I have a few questions. I checked to see if the pin goes all the way through the ejector. It does not appear to be the case (to check, I used some cold blue to see if it shows a difference between the pin and ejector). So, if the pin does go in a blind hole, I need to know if it is pressed in, threaded in or installed in some other way. Removing the old pin also i a little more problematic this way as we do not have a small drill chuck for a mill that can clear the shaft of the ejector. Here is a picture to show where the pins are broken of in the ejectors.



One way I can do this is to drill from the other side of the ejector, press fit a new guide pin, weld it in place and dress the ejector down to dimension again.

I did post this on the Fox Collectors forum as well. I would appreciate any ideas and suggestions.

If you are good with TIG the new pin could be welded in place.
bill

I never saw a Fox with a "MonoBlock".

Yes, you are correct. As I stated, I am still a student and just used the wrong terminology.

It is evident that the requester is a student and instead of an offending type response, would not a response with an instructors attitude be more appropriate. Such as: "Fox gun barrels were assembled with one of the several brazing methods sometimes referred to as dovetail methods. Illustrations of these methods and other can be found in several reference books. However the best is on pages 49-50 in the book "JAGDWAFFENKUNDE" by the master gunmaker Willi Barthold. Although the book is in German (Copywright by VEB Verlag Technik, Berlin, 1969) it is THE reference book for double gunmakers and is considered a masterpiece of reference work.

This book appears on Amazon and other sites from time to time but is quickly snatched up. The best way to procure it Neil, is via internet book purchase from Germany and you will expect to pay about $100.00 "

Best Regards;
Bushveld

NeilC;

Please see your personal e-mail for an explanation that my my close colleague has posted to you on how this is repair is accomplished; whilst it is a the English method of repairing it, I am certain that it is carried out in America similarly.

Neil,
I was a machinist and machine shop owner for many years.

Like most problems, there are many ways to approach this. The stem of the extractor is long and prevents you from getting a chuck or the spindle of a mill/drillpress in there.

One approach to consider is to make a drill extension out of a piece of larger diameter round barstock (drillrod is o.d. ground and runs pretty true) like 3/4" or 1" and drill the end for an appropriate diameter for a small piece of carbide blank. I'm guessing but those pins are probably about .070-.080" dia? If so, maybe a 1/16" dia carbide blank would work out for a spade drill. A carbide spade drill is easily hand ground and will cut pretty hard stuff, including broken taps. But you can try a short high speed drill too. The large diameter will reduce the wandering of the drill.

Another way is to Elox (EDM hole drill) the part out. Most cities have some sort of Elox service provided to the auto repair industry to remove broken bolts.

For the replacement, I'd drill all the way thru, put the pin and extractor in place with the pin protruding, TIG it, dress it down.

If there is one guide still on the gun and the gun is an extractor model, why not just go with the one guide? I have a Sterlingworth I've been shooting that way for years...Geo

PS: Niel, I see your gun is an ejectore, so of course you'd need them both.

Thank you everyone for the help. I think I will be able to get this now. I will report back on the progress.

I am quite happy as the methods that everyone described to me was what I originally had thought of doing. I should have said something to my instructor about it, but that is how we learn. I also wanted to make sure there was not a better way. Of course, my biggest concern was installing the new pins. All the comments I received on the installation was the same, so I will use that method.

BTW, 2-piper, no offense taken.
bushveld, I will try and procure that book! After I buy all the 1911 parts, rifle stocks and other items I need for my course. Luckily, Afrikaans is my first language so the German might not be that great an obstacle.

Again, thank you everyone. I do appreciate the help.

Neil;
I certainly did not mean my statement in an offencive way. I did realize you had said you were a student, so figured you needed to learn the correct terminology. Would have beeen quite happy to help you see what a monoblock is, but apparently from your responce you already know & just got a little careless.
I too was a machinist (now retired) & I will just echo the great advice Chuck has given you.