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Forums10
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Mar 29th, 2024
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 189 Likes: 5
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 189 Likes: 5 |
IF THE TOP LEVER ON A DOUBLE IS TO THE LEFT OF CENTER, IS THIS AN EXPENDSIVE OR HARD TO DO FIX? I KNOW THERE ARE VARIABLES TO CONSIDER SUCH AS HOW FAR LEFT, ETC, BUT GENERALLY SPEAKING IS THIS A DIFFICULT MATTER FOR A GUNSMITH TO RESOLVE? THANKS.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
A lot of this depends on the design of the action and locking mechanism-- The top rotary tapered bolt (L.C. Smith, AH Fox and Ithacas- both Flues and especially the later NID series) like any locking mechanism with a tapered mortise, will wear away metal contact points over time and usage--
Other boxlock guns-like the Parker with the 1905 Hayes design tool steel wear plate that is pinned and is replaceable, and the later Win M21 with the set screw adjustment for degree of "bite" of the bolt to the barrel lug notch, are somewhat different-
First thing I would do- with the gun unloaded of course, and hammers cocked, remove the forearm- and check the barrel breech to receiver face contact- any serious 'play' usually means the gun is "off-face" and that can mean a rebuilding of the barrel lug radius, possible replacement or build up on the hinge pin- to bring it back to factory specs-
If the barrels are set tight, even with the top lever on center or slightly to left of the center of the top tang, then I would replace the forearm and slowly move the top lever to the right, as if you were opening it. I have "safe cracker" sensitive fingers, so I can feel the point where the "free play" in the lever starts to end and the metal to metal- vis a vis the engagement of all the locking parts in that gun's design, start to make contact- usually easier for me with a top rotary bolt fastener shotgun--
Your gunsmith is always the best place to start-And you will note the absence of Over/Unders and british Purdey double underbolted design guns from my comments- I have NO experience with those--
Last edited by Run With The Fox; 12/02/11 09:34 AM.
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,065
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,065 |
Usually the lever being to the left is a result of pin/hook wear.
It can be as simple as putting a beer can shim around the pin or as complicated as sending the gun off and having the pin replaced. Having the hook TIG welded and fitted is in between; ~$200.
On Model 21s and some Lefevers there is an adjustment screw for this very thing.
I don't worry about it until the gun is loose and/or off face.
Best,
Mike
Last edited by AmarilloMike; 12/02/11 10:24 AM.
I am glad to be here.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,740 Likes: 97
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,740 Likes: 97 |
"don't worry about it until the gun is loose and/or off face."
mike: at least we can agree on something. ed
keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50 |
If this shotgun has the extension rib with the "window" in it, it is a good chance that the slope is worn causing the lever to the left. Most that have this type, will use the rotary bolt, that has it's own slope built in to it, and very seldom does this wear compared to the extention rib with the window.
Unless you shoot this gun a few times a week and shoot hundreds of shells, you will probably never wear this out as this was what it was made for.
David
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,553
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,553 |
So Foxy, you have a Tombstone hand & Safe Cracking fingers???
Sweet
franc
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8,158 Likes: 114 |
Yes indeedy-do-- works great for special ops. stuff- settin' trip lines for Claymores on the perimeter- gauging bushin wear on as-issued 1911-A-1's-- and nailin' woodchucks and coyotes and yes, even my namesake critter-Fox-- at a distance with a .220Swifty-- Life is good here in my neck o'da woods--but I still sleep with one eye open, and watch my back, and keep my few friends close, and my many enemies even closer-
"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,743 |
There are two wear points to consider here. Hinge wear & bolt wear. The Lefever mentioned has a ball screw hinge which can be adjusted for hinge wear. The Win 21 has replacable hinge rolls for hinge wear compensation.
On both the top lever will go left to compensate for bolt wear. If both Hinge & bolt wear are present the hinge should not be "Over Adjusted" to compensate for the bolt wear, the tapered bolt bites deeper to take care of that as the lever goes left.
The screw in the bottom of the 21s bolt notch is not for centering the lever, but to limit the depth the bolt can enter. The 21 has a very shallow angle to the bolt & if allowed to go home without the screw stopping it, it can stick bringing on hard opening & also increased wear to the bolt surfaces. As bolt wear occurs the screw should be turned "IN" slightly, just enough to compensate for the wear. This allows the bolt to bite a bit deeper to take up the wear & the lever will come left as a result.
Remember bolt wear normally occurs faster on a new gun than an older one as the mating parts wear-in to one another.
Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
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