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Joined: Jan 2005
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Thank you Tinker, BrentD and halfadouble.
To answer some questions, it shoots OK, considering the barrel has some pitting. I only shoot cast in it. Lyman 311291 and Lyman 311299 were the molds that shot best. Five shot groups run around 2-3" at 100, off a bench. I can easily break small balloons offhand at 100. I initially had problems with uncalled fliers. I had already glassed the rear of the magazine box, as it acts like a recoil lug, while I was doing the stock work. I figured the barrel band might be the flier problem, so I glassed the forend under the band so that the barrel, band and stock were all fit snugly together. The uncalled fliers disappeared.
I do have a picture of cutting the stock for the chunk of walnut I used for the grip. You're going to laugh. I don't have a mill, so I set up my drill press to do the job. Crude set up, but it gave me the smooth, flat horizontal surface I needed. I hand chiseled the two vertical cuts with a left to right draft so I could tap the block in and have a tight joint. I sketched in the checkering pattern to make sure the joint would be deep enough to be completely under the checkering. I had to make the cut much longer than I would have if doing the job from scratch. The previous sporterizing included an added pistol grip, made of a piece of 2x4, and set so far back a shooter would have to have hands like an Orangutan to get any benefit from the grip. I also included a picture of the gun before I started in on it to show that. If I was adding a grip to an unaltered stock, I would have made the joints right at the back of the trigger guard and right at the rear of where the grip cap would be, to make them less noticable. On this stock I had to make the rear joint about an inch behind the grip cap in order to remove all of the 2x4. That's out there where it is easy to see. I had to add some slivers of wood, taken from the barrel channel, to help hide the straight lines of that joint. A little bit of red mahogany stain and checkering hid everything else pretty well.


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Oh looky here

https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=319872


A mind is a terrible thing to waste! Completely forgot about that post when I bought the rifle.....it's been a while! grin


Dodging lions and wasting time.....
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Originally Posted By: Ken Nelson


A mind is a terrible thing to waste!


We're all here together, Ken.
We're here to help...


crazy

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Greg you are very welcome!

I like your setup.
I also like your sneaky use of slivers of material from the barrel channel for camouflage of the joinery.

Good!

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Greg, you are master of the drill press! I use mine as my metal lathe. You are in another league using it as a mill. smile


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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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My sporter. I know nothing about its history, but I like it.

I have not gotten it to shoot particularly well. That is probably my fault as the barrel looks perfect.









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BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Brent that rifle is looking good.
The aperture sight looks shop made, pretty cool detail.

Describe the shooting performance. Maybe we can put our heads together and help you get it running right on the targets.

Have you slugged the bore?
What loads have you tried?
Which bullets?

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Greg, I have a 30-40 light barreled sporter on a Winchester highwall action with a one piece stock by Farr. It was out of the Benenson collection. I tried all the 30 caliber moulds and found that it preferred 311284 over 20 grains of H4198 to the tune of .8 inch groups at 100 with a tang sight.

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Halfa-

With your twenty grains are you using dacron or anything over the powder, or just the powder.
What primer?
Do you know the velocity that you are getting?

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