doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Search Menu..??)**&#$ Tru-Oil over fresh colors

I find that if you enter two or three search terms, the search function assumes you want all posts with any one of the terms...that doesn't work very well. Also, what's up with the rationing? Won't let you do more than two searches then it imposes a cooling off period.

I am looking for the posts relating to lacquering over fresh case colors. I remember a post that stated that Gaddy used Tru Oil....are there any alternatives? And does the Tru Oil need to be cut with anything? I applied some to a freshly colored action with a brush and it came out with pinpricks in the coating.

Oscar used Bheln's spray laquer after trying many.
bill

By "pinpricks" I assume you are referring to what painters would call "fisheyes." These are usually a result of the surface not being completely clean before application, and most often indicate the presence of residual silicone. You can get the silicone from some oils and preservatives, from the inside of a case or a gunsock, or from many types of wax. Clean the surface with an automotive paint prep such as Ditz-O or PreCleanO, or carbon tetrachloride (if you can get it). Be careful, and don't get these cleaners on the wood finish.

It is my understanding that Prof. Gaddy used thinned Tru Oil, but later switched to Behlen's lacquer, sprayed onto the stripped metal parts. Lacquer offers more protection and lasts longer, but Tru Oil is easier to apply and easier to refresh, and leaves a nice matte finish. If you use Tru Oil to redo your project, try rubbing it on with your fingertip. You want the finish coat to be microscopically thin, like a coat of wax.

Oscar used TruOil on my gun, about 4 years ago. I'm happy.

Only time I use Tru-Oil is to coat metal, and have had my best luck cutting it 1:1 or even 1:2 with simple paint thinner or mineral spirits. Seems to be too thick for such application otherwise. I apply it with a piece of clean cotton T-shirt wrapped tight over a finger-tip with good results. No runs no particles... and have even been able to recoat without stripping for the most part.


Robert

Ditto. I cut mine 50/50 with mineral spirits for all uses.

Just in case you haven't been reading the other threads properly:

Posted by Oscar Gaddy (Member # 38) on November 16, 2003, 12:58 PM:

For some time, I have been using a clear-coat aerosol spray-on lacquer made and sold by Behlens. It is a true cellulose lacquer that you can spray on and have a very uiform coat without bubbles and running with just a little care in application. When you need to redo it, it can easily be removed by merely soaking the parts in acetone. I have been very pleasedd with it's performance and I use it on all Damascus barrels that I refinish and on some guns that I color caseharden if the owner wants a protective coating.

Whatever you use, I recommend that you completely strip the internal parts and degrease carefully before applying the protective coating. You will then need to lubricate the appropriate parts and places when you reassemble.

Oscar Gaddy

JC(AL)

I think the mistake I used was to brush it on without diluting it. Anyway, I didn't like the yellow cast, and it seemed to fill up the engraving and look "varnished" so I stripped it off with lacquer thinners (I must say it comes right off) and resprayed with a clear lacquer that the mfg says will also come off with lacquer thinners. Much happier with the results!.

Anyway, thanks for the input. Next time maybe I will try the thinned tru oil applied with a pad.

For now I am happy!