doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Soaking/cleaning solvent

What should I be soaking my L. C. Smith locks in, while I refinish the stock? I don't want to further harm the case colors, but they definately need a good cleaning on the inside.

I wouldn't soak them at all. Spray them with Marvel penatrating oil, scrub the works with a tooth brush, spray clean with LPS contact cleaner and properly lube for reinstallation.

The spray can brake and alternator cleaner at the auto parts store is the hot setup. The non-residue kind. Dirt cheap and will remove decades of crud in a very satisfying way. It will also remove most stock finishes and your lungs if you take a hit on the can. I use it to clean old electronics and guns.

Quick, easy, and way cheap.

works for me

Dr.WtS

If you really want to get the locks and action clean on the cheap....soak the works in diesel fuel...lightly scrub, dry and lube.

Dustin

When cleaning old guns parts were there is a build-up of the kind of varnish from old oil etc, I use the method handed down to me by a very experienced gunmaker.
I simply put all the pieces in a stainless steel saucepan, cover in tap water, add a suitable amount of dishwasher powder or liquid and boil for 10 minutes.
Rinse off with clean water, dry in a warm oven or blow off with compressed air.
De-water with WD40 or similar if any doubts about whether all moisture has been removed, and then oil/grease.
This will remove all traces of old oil and grease from crevices and engraving. It will not harm any existing finishes that I have come across.
A light work-over with a dremel may be required for surface rust, use on coloured surfaces at your own risk!

I use the spray carburetor cleaner, which is a volatile hydrocarbon (maybe carbon tet) and it cleans, drys quckly and the you can spray it with Rem Oil, marvel etc.

I take the action (removed from stock) and soak overnight in Coleman Fuel, then I use spray carburator or brake cleaner (with the long red plastic tube) to blast out any remaining crude deep in the action (works especialy well on boxlocks). Dry with compressed air or overnight. Next I relubricate and blast out excess lubricant with my airhose and put it all back together.
Steve

Wow! Lots of home remedies that all sound good. I tried some PB Blaster, because that's what I had on hand. It seemed to work well, with no apparent harm to the finish.

I use Hoppe's No. 9 solvent. I apply it liberally with a small paintbrush, let it sit for awhile, and brush crud with a brass toothbrush. Repeat as necessary. My air compressor does wonders for small areas that are hard to reach after the solvent loosens things up. The brass toothbrushes are at my local hardware store with the plumbing, specifically, the soldering supplies. I also use bronze wool and small brass scrapers made out of large rifle brass. I flatten the case mouth and it makes a great little scraper for heavy buildups of rust or crud. The brass scraper may leave little streaks of brass, but some No. 9 on a rag wipes it right off. I can apply lotsa 'elbow grease' with my non-ferrous implements with no fear of damaging remaining finishes or natural patina. Cheers!

I have had good luck with mineral spirits, and Kerosene.