doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Repair/Replace trigger guard

I'm considering a gun with a broken trigger guard. Otherwise very good condition and rather unique (no part available). The trigger guard is cracked and has an odd dent in it. Anyone have a suggestion as to where/how it can be repaired or a replacement fabricated???

Dewey is your man --

http://www.vicknairrestorations.com/

TIG weld, hammer file , and polish. Sound like an easy repair.

bill

I had a German sidelock double with the guard broken across the rear screw hole. Although heavily engraved, there was a narrow gap in engraving at the break. I was able to carefully clamp and TIG weld it, dress the weld, and clean up the countersink without touching the engraving. Then after welding and filing the backside, I was pleased to see the heat discoloration on the previously welded front blended nicely with the original case colors. Used a 1/16" tungsten and thin filler rod. Did I mention I put off doing this job for over a year as I was nervous about damaging the engraving? This would be a simple job for a decent TIG welder on a plain guard.

Thanks

Make sure that the 1/16" tungsten is 2% Thoria- not Pure Tungsten, which is used for non-ferrous when you want to have a "ball tip"--I have a special small fine wheel grinder in the shop for putting a BLUNT point on the 2% Tungsten electrodes when I am TIG welding ferrous metals- never grind to a pencil point, as the inital heat when you initiate the arc will blow off that fine point into the parent metal- also, clean and degrease the mild steel filler rod you are using before you weld- and NEVER use coat hanger wire or MIG wire for TIG- Another freebie from "Der TIG-Meister"-- on aluminum or any other non-ferrous metal you might want to weld- use a 50-50 ratio of Helium and Argon- Old times, like me, still call TIG Heli_Arc from the WW11 aircraft welding era when Helium was the inert shielding gas-- And the smallest practical tungsten dia. for that is 3/16" PURE Tung- I use 1/8" 90% of the time in a bigger cup and coolant capacity Linde 300 AMP rated TIG torch-use a block of brass on your grounded bench- as yes, welding non-ferrous means AC and Hi-Freq- with a soft-start pedal or hand rheostat on the Torch- set the welder for the amperage range you will use, with a clean tungsten, normal protrusion from the cup edge is 1.5 x the dia of the filler rod- but in this case, to get a fine even "balled tip"- increase the stick-out slightly, then moved the Polarity switch to DC Rev. Polarity- move the tungsten electrode over the grounded brass block, drop hood (or if you have the never auto-shield series) and tap the soft-start petal- the REV polatiry will immediately ball the tip- so it's a touch and go- as soon as you see that, get off the switch-, re-set the electrode stick out to suit the work and joint you will be welding and REMEMBER TO RE-SET THE POLARITY BACK TO AC--

As a pipefitter working in metal trades, i have found welding carbon steel with TIG much easier when the copper wash is completely cleaned off the filler material, using a rheostat or foot pedal on fine work is almost a necessity to avoid "butt-holes" someone with some experience with the rig can "walk" the heat away to allow the metal to cool slowly, but a 'stat sure helps.

I have welded all kinds of metals, titanium, aluminum, AL6XN, hastalloy, stainless, carbon, P22, P91. Welded in Nuke plants, powerhouses, and food grade facilities. My best advice, take your time and don't be afraid to file! Make sure all materials are clean, and let the heat be your friend.

Lots of good advice there. Fox, I'm sure you forgot to mention that your special fine wheel for grinding your TIG tungstens is used for that purpose only. Using it for other purposes will contaminate the tungsten. I myself like a fine needle point on my 2% thoriated tungsten when welding ferrous metal, ground at a taper of about 3 1/2 to 4 times the tungsten diameter. But as soon as that point hits the puddle, it's gone and time for a trip to the grinder. That's why I usually have 4 or 5 tungstens ground and ready to go when I start. It would help to have a very steady hand to keep that tip out of the puddle. A block of copper also works very well for putting the ball on pure tungstens when welding non-ferrous. But I am assuming the trigger guard in question here is steel. Some "aluminum" guards out there are pot metal which can be very difficult or impossible to weld.

Go to the head of the class and get yourself a Big Gold Star- 110% correct- and your background is a mirror of mine-RWTF

Another "Gold Star" answer- in honor of my oldie but still a goodie Miller 300 amp Gold Star TIG- also sweet for SMAW (stick rod) with the soft-start- yup- two Linde water cooled torches, foot 'stat- grounded bench with dis-connect to re-link ground leg to "non-benched" work- and two stinger leads (Tweco)- a smaller one for 1/8" and 3/16" dia rod- and a heavier one for the downhand fab welding with "drag rods"-- 7014 etc 1/4" and 5/16"-- I never use that small 4" B&D grinder for anything else but tungsten electrodes, as you do with yours- and I also have some spare electrodes for ferrous metal work ground to a "eyeballed" taper to match the filler rod- also- note than Pure Tung, 1% Thoria and 2% Thorian usually have a color code painted on one end- so I try to preserve that and grind the point (or ball the tip for AC work) on the other unmarked end-

I also now have a used but re-built Lincoln MIG wire welder- 250 amp- pushes .035 dia. 70-S3 code wire- Tweco gun and hose, and I am using a 75% Co2/25% Argon shielding gas- nice for inside work with no drafts to deflect the gas collar at the nozzle- and on clean new steel for "fab" work- But- I still do more with the SMAW- as my "rabbi" taught me years ago- "pretty damn hard to screw up a ground lead, a stinger a stick or either: 5P, HYP (Hippie rod) or Lo-Hi (LH-70) and a good welding machine (in his case- all Lincoln- all US of A made-))good old days indeed--