S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
2 members (MattH, canvasback),
499
guests, and
5
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,466
Posts545,091
Members14,409
|
Most Online1,258 Mar 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91 |
After my first rust as per all instructions, I boiled my barrels. Instead of a black finish I get a red. What's wrong? Thanks. Ed
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 264 Likes: 23
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 264 Likes: 23 |
I Would suspect contaminated boiling water,suggest clean and polish again, re-rust and then boil in de-ionised water also called de-mineralised water from a supplier like Culligan dealer.
Hugh Lomas, H.G.Lomas Gunmakers Inc. 920 876 3745
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,082
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,082 |
not boiled long or hot enough.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
EEB What rusting solution did you use , how many coats and did you use logwood and ferrous sulfate in the water?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91 |
I think Dubbletrubble hit it. My heat source does not get the boil rolling. Only a simmer. I used diluted Laurel Mountain 1:1. The rusting was perfect. Boil not so much. Thanks everyone for their help. Should I strip the barrels and start over?
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 777 Likes: 36
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 777 Likes: 36 |
In Angier's book on Blueing & Browning, page 18, he mentions that any carbonate in the boiling bath will 'partly or entirely convert the carefully formed black oxide into fox-red carbonate: a most unwelcome accident that is hard to repair even with a coarse scratch brush.' I suggest that your boiling water had become corrupted with carbonate (hard water?) and this caused your problem rather than any problem with the temp of the bath. When blacking barrels, I rarely bother to push the tank temperature to a full rolling boil, I find that the black oxide forms very happily at anything over 92 degrees. Having the tank right up to temp doesn't even seem to speed the process. I must admit to no experience with blacking Damascus and if this was what you were doing, there may be a different issue.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91 |
Toby: I had not thought of the water's PH. I use well water, next time I'll try distilled.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
I went from well water to rain water and it helps. Going to to use some logwood to get black however
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50 |
This is 5 rustings and 2 etchings on a 1899 L.C. Smith F grade Hammer gun with Stub Twist barrels. Humidity 88% in box, tray of warm water to accelerate rusting. Left from 4 hrs-12 hours (overnight). Laurel Mountain Forge Browner, first coat full, then dipped swab in water and then into LMF. Boiled for 5 minutes in distilled water, last 2 rustings, etched with Radio Shack 15% echant in about 85% distilled water for 5 seconds. Final, heated barrels warm to touch and coated with boiled linseed oil and let sit until hard.
Last edited by JDW; 11/08/09 06:43 PM.
David
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
This is an 1889 Remingtonthat I did without logwood A W&C Scott that I finished with a small amount of logwood bath
|
|
|
|
|