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Joined: Oct 2005
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rgser Offline OP
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Thanks guys, In all likelyhood the original protection is still there -- Thanks Geno -- never thought about that.


Small Munsterlander Pionters & a good shotgun -- What more can a man ask!
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The Behlen's product that Oscar used is numbered as B101-0800 (I think). That's what I have in my notes. Available at woodwork stores and the like or online.

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You guys are talking about clear spray laquer varnish, right? Isn't that what Oscar used?

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Some British makers use a gum lacquer, called "Thermolene,"made by MacDermid P.L.C. to protect case colours.


Roy Hebbes
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I have used tru oil(on the action and damascus) because it is easy to apply/remove and gives good protection,even if it does give a very slight yellow cast.
I am sure Lacquer would last longer but would require a total strip of the action,which in the case of German boxlocks in particular is something I try not to do.
Tru oil can be applied with a small artists brush on an assembled action,perhaps even stocked if you have a steady hand and apply it thinly.

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Oscar used Behlens Clear Lacquer. Test is against the lubes and solvents you use before investing the time. Behlens is not compatible with G96. G96 slowly dissolves the lacquer coating.

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LC Smith factory used lacquer thinned with 1/3 lacquer thinner, applied with cotton balls. 3 coats. Applies smoothly, evenly and dries quickly so that all 3 coats could be applied within minutes.


Charlie

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In the words of The Master himself:

Posted by Oscar Gaddy (Member # 38) on November 16, 2003, 12:58 PM:

For some time, I have been using a clear-coat aerosol spray-on lacquer made and sold by Behlens. It is a true cellulose lacquer that you can spray on and have a very uiform coat without bubbles and running with just a little care in application. When you need to redo it, it can easily be removed by merely soaking the parts in acetone. I have been very pleasedd with it's performance and I use it on all Damascus barrels that I refinish and on some guns that I color caseharden if the owner wants a protective coating.

Whatever you use, I recommend that you completely strip the internal parts and degrease carefully before applying the protective coating. You will then need to lubricate the appropriate parts and places when you reassemble.

Oscar Gaddy


JC(AL)


"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin
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Geno,
Have sent you a PM. If you can't open it, please try one to me with your email and I'll use that.
Regards, Tim

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I brushed on some TO and I didn't like the result. There were pinpricks in the finish, (bubbles? surely not dust?), brush marks where I tried to keep it thin, and it made my colors a LOT darker. Blues almost black. I guess I will try that Behlens stuff.


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