doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Question about firing pins...

I posted a few weeks back about my new CG Bonehill Challenge that I picked up... It's a peach of a gun and I killed several doves with it last weekend during the opening day hunt in the South zone of Texas. I am having one little issue with it though...

To refresh everyone, it's a 12 gauge, modern steel gun, 30" barrels that are in proof for 2.75" Nitro shells. I was shooting Winchester factory light 1 oz loads at about 1100 FPS. What is happening is it seems the firing pins are sticking in the primers. It takes a pretty good deal of force to break the action after firing and the pins leave scrapes on the primers from being dragged across them. (I didn't fire it much this year because of that. It can't be good for them.)

Now, I found this gun on an online auction, bought it, and received it. It is in almost dead mint condition. There are still damascening marks on the face of the chambers, there aren't even safe dings in the finish. It is definately all factory too. It has not been refinished. All I can figure is that this was perhaps a display gun somewhere, or someone who didn't like double guns was given/won this gun and it sat in a safe for 70 years. (The best estimate I can come up with is that this is a pre-war gun, probably 1939, but I'm not positive. I can explain how I got to that conclusion if you'd like.)

Is it possible that the firing pin springs are just still very strong from not being used? The pin indents in the primers aren't abnormally deep, but nevertheless, the pins are sticking in the primers.

Did this particular gun have rebounding pins? Are the rebound springs worn out perhaps? Or does this A&D boxlock just retract the pins as the springs are cocked upon opening?

Needs some help here fellas...

Nick

Hello Nick,

At the risk of sounding obvious, have you given it a good cleaning? From what you
describe, the gun has not been used for ages and it can have a buildup of dirt that
is hindering proper function. JMTC.

JC

That thought crossed my mind, and I cleaned it as well as it could be cleaned without taking the action apart. I'm by no means any kind of gunsmith so I am hesitant to take the action apart. Is it hard to disassemble an Anson and Deely Boxlock?

Not hard but I do stress get the right set of turn screws (screw drivers) for it. DO NOT use normal screw driver or you will mar them up.

Oh definately will have to get some turn screws. It's too pretty a gun to mar up the screws.

there is a great step by step instructional in book "The Art of Gunsmithing" that just makes you want to pack the gun off to the nearest competent smith. Kirk Merrington is somewhere in the Lonestar state. Contact him and "getter-done".

Oh I'm well aware of Kirk Merrington. I've had some work done by him before. Great gunsmith but I can't afford him. Nor can I afford the 18 month wait he's got right now. I've got a good gunsmith that used to work for Briley here in Houston, but I was hoping there was a more coloquial solution to this. I suppose not.

Phi, I recommend you get Jack Rowe's Gunsmithing DVD . Great instructions.

With care and the proper tools you should be able to do it yourself. Very satisfying.

JC

Try different shells.
Some have complained about Win primers being soft and hanging onto the firing pins.

You ask if the firing pin springs might just be still very strong from not being used since new. Firing pin springs don't "drive" the firing pin into the primer, the hammer blow does that. It likely has no "rebound" or "retractor" springs, and simple little 3 coil or so sections from a ball point pen, slid over the nose of the firing pin, can often help "retract" the pin after firing. They are simple to install, but do require taking out the firing pins. If your gun has firing pins integral with the hammers, this is not an option. It still may well be that a simple cleaning will solve the problem.