March
S M T W T F S
1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31
Who's Online Now
1 members (eightbore), 827 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums10
Topics38,374
Posts544,014
Members14,391
Most Online1,131
Jan 21st, 2024
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 142
Member
*
Offline
Member
*

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 142
Originally Posted By: Ortolan
Forget hide glue - it stinks to high heavens, is a nightmare to get to original consistency unless hermetically sealed and temperature-controlled stored.
Huh? No way. You can either get it pre-mixed and in liquid form, or you buy the chips, put them in water on a double burner or a baby bottle warmer and just warm it up. The glue goes down warm, it has a reasonably pleasant odor (certainly doesn't stink to high heavens) and works as advertised. You can buy the glue chips/flakes from places like Woodworker's Supply. Ortolan must have been using this stuff from a different planet because my experience (albeit on pianos - but dozens of them) certainly is diametrically opposite from what he is espousing.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 345
Likes: 8
Sidelock
**
Offline
Sidelock
**

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 345
Likes: 8
Yeah, what Zircon said.... I've always enjoyed working with the stuff and have never had temp problems when slightly heated. Are we talking the same product, Kevin?

Robt.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,074
Sidelock
***
Offline
Sidelock
***

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,074
Hide glue from the hardware store has a definite shelf life. The date used to be stamped on the back of brown plastic bottle, in tiny white illegible numbers. The reason for this dating was that the urea -- used to keep the glue from just re-linking it's molecular strands of protein chains back into a semisolid in the bottle -- also eventually will destroy the ability of the chains to link at all. Think: 'Velcro' with limp hooks and eyes. AND -- when the protein and water mix starts to "go off", it definitely will be odorous, as well as thin and runny.

However, the current mix in the brown plastic bottle in the paint section seems to have a longer shelf life. As well, I use them rather quickly, anyway. It is quite useful in the restoration biz, including as an adhesive for putting down pool table felt in cases, traveling desks, and tables. As well, it is well suited to tedious wood repairs, due to it's long open time AND the fact that it can be undone, in the case of a clamp slippage or my own miscalculation of something.

Depending on what application is being undertaken, one can also choose from several strength grades of granular hide glue, which is warmed with water to no more than F 135 degrees. Going higher tends to cook the protein, lessening it's strength. The highest 'gram strength' grades were actually painted on plate glass in decorative patterns, where the strength of their adhesion when curing would cause glass chips to spall out the surface, creating twining vines with leaves, or other motifs.

Like the use any material, a good deal of reading about it's use, the patience to try and fail until successful, and the ability to learn from and to fix one's mistakes are helpful to the would-be craftsman. Hide glue is nice about that process, being easy to try, try, try again. Cleans up nicely with warm water or a bit of white vinegar, BTW. And it's a damn good glue, too.

Now: comes now the fly in the olde-tyme pantry for reciepts to the laying of baize, felt, leather and the like. The traditional material was and is wheat paste, and a good one it is, tho tedious somewhat in it's proper preparation. Soooo .... you must now pay me five hundred dollars, for my weekend course in the use of modern materials in lieu of the sticky old stuff.

Or you can just read this paragraph for free, I suppose: vinyl wallpaper paste will do all the needed stuff for the cloth[s] under discussion, nicely. It doesn't go all mouldy like wheat paste, nor does it require an interest in fundamental traditional woodworking materials and their uses, nor do you have to use materials that cannot be 'undone'.

The small family shop that puts down VERY expensive leather tops on fine furniture for Sotheby's in NYC uses ordinary, over the counter, vinyl wallpaper paste in a plastic bucket. It spreads easily, has a long open time, allows repositioning of boo-boo's, cleanup is plain water, the nap of the cloth can brushed out, and it is cheap.

The stuff is handy, cheap, and does the job as well as the most complicated or toxic or insoluble adesive. It actually is easier to work worth than any of them. Commercial liquid hide glue as describe in other posts above, is the second choice, and it's adhesion is much stronger, for applications where the cloth is constantly being stressed, subjected to sheer pressures, or being shoved about in some manner.

Hide glue on one's fingers and using the keys on a computer keyboard are not a compatible activity, BTW, should you keep a 'puter in the shop.

Adidas,


Relax; we're all experts here.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 606
Sidelock
**
OP Offline
Sidelock
**

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 606
John,
As usual, you are a veritable font of information! I wll try your vinyl wallpaper idea as well as the Titebond liquid hide glue.

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 408
Member
**
Offline
Member
**

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 408
I "espouse" nothing having to do with hide glue - why fool with the ancient glop anyway, with so many other first-class adhesives available to save your time? KBM

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 142
Member
*
Offline
Member
*

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 142
Yep, quite apparent you've had nothing to do with hide glue. But that's ok, because those of us who have had the experience have a good idea of its benefits and uses.

Page 2 of 2 1 2

Link Copied to Clipboard

doublegunshop.com home | Welcome | Sponsors & Advertisers | DoubleGun Rack | Doublegun Book Rack

Order or request info | Other Useful Information

Updated every minute of everyday!


Copyright (c) 1993 - 2024 doublegunshop.com. All rights reserved. doublegunshop.com - Bloomfield, NY 14469. USA These materials are provided by doublegunshop.com as a service to its customers and may be used for informational purposes only. doublegunshop.com assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions in these materials. THESE MATERIALS ARE PROVIDED "AS IS" WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANT-ABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR NON-INFRINGEMENT. doublegunshop.com further does not warrant the accuracy or completeness of the information, text, graphics, links or other items contained within these materials. doublegunshop.com shall not be liable for any special, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages, including without limitation, lost revenues or lost profits, which may result from the use of these materials. doublegunshop.com may make changes to these materials, or to the products described therein, at any time without notice. doublegunshop.com makes no commitment to update the information contained herein. This is a public un-moderated forum participate at your own risk.

Note: The posting of Copyrighted material on this forum is prohibited without prior written consent of the Copyright holder. For specifics on Copyright Law and restrictions refer to: http://www.copyright.gov/laws/ - doublegunshop.com will not monitor nor will they be held liable for copyright violations presented on the BBS which is an open and un-moderated public forum.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.0.33-0+deb9u11+hw1 Page Time: 0.048s Queries: 27 (0.027s) Memory: 0.8242 MB (Peak: 1.8988 MB) Data Comp: Off Server Time: 2024-03-29 05:39:19 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS