doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Correct adhesive for lining cases with wool felt?

The last case that I relined, I used ordinary carpenters' glue. It wasn't a good choice, soaks thru the felt, leaves hard areas where it dries, and visible colour differences. Does anybody know what the pros use, or have a recommendation based on personal successful use?

Ron, I used hot melt glue sticks, slow curing. If you put a lot down, you will get some bleed through. You could also try using 3M Spray Addesive. You spray on and let it dry, then put your felt on it.

Ron, Use the spray stuff from 3M. I have lined a few cases and it doesn't bleed through. Use it for the paper type labels as well. If you get a small amount of the glue on the label some mineral spirits will ermove it and just let it dry to remove the spot.
Regards, Gordon

Ron, I recently finished making a Leg-O-Mutton case. I used both the 3M brand plus the cheaper equivalent spray adhesive from K-Mart - couldn't tell the difference in application. I allowed a couple of minutes drying time after I sprayed the interior of the case and the billiard cloth before attaching. You may wish to lay some waxed paper over the adjacent case areas to prevent overspray from the adhesive.

Ron,

I'm going to buck the tide and make a case for good, old traditional hide glue. There are several reasons for this....the primary one being that you or someone else may want to remove that fabric in later years to reline or reconfigure the interior.

Hide glue, being water soluble, simply needs a light spraying and some time to sit.... and the fabric will lift out without undue scraping.... as you WILL most definitely be doing with stuff like 3M's spray-ons. I speak from experience, having done a good number of cases, and you will have the devil's time of it trying to remove fabrics applied with such products. I've used the 3M Superbond 77 product to attach a case label or two, and even abandoned that, as when removing it you will destroy the lid fabric trying to get it out.

Hide glue works there as well, especially on paper trade labels, as they can be steamed and peeled out as the hide glue softens. Done in this manner, the paper labels can be dried in a press of some sort to maintain flatness and re-used again.

Another positive of hide glue is the long 'open time' it has for working and adjusting the fabric, which you will NOT get with most spray-on contact cements. You can still find hide glues rather readily either in powder or liquid form. I've occasionally used the liquid product by Titebond with good success......heating mildly with hot water in a double boiler type arrangement as this makes it a bit more fluid for applying with a small (2")bristle brush. The powdered glue is similar in that once mixed with water you are working out of a heated glue pot. Some of the guys in the business being concerned with production time use a similar fish glue that cures a bit quicker - especially under a small modeling iron. A 4" spackle knife and/or 3" roller as used for formica or tile work also aids in embedding the glue into the fabric fibers after you've positioned your cloth.

To conclude, I'll just say that I won't even consider doing a reline job if I suspect that a super adhesive has been used since I will literally have to sand it and the fabric out of the case interior for a considerable expense of time and frustration. Hope this is of some help.

Gotta go with Bob Harris on the hide glue. Piano actions have lots and lots of felt parts glued onto wood. The traditional glue is hide glue. It holds felt fast to wood, and just a little steam and it releases the felt for easy replacement.

Gentlemen,
Where do you purchase Hide Glue? Will I find it in a hardware store, or is there a specialty source? Thanks

Robert has given you some good advice. That said plain ol' Elmers white glue has the same attributes as animal glue without the hassels; and is cheap and readily available. I've used it on all the cases I've relined and even stripping a case after the glue dries is no problem(don't ask why I know this; just make sure you have enough fabric on hand), it acts just like the original animal glues used in english trunk cases; mist with water and it softens right up. It works for case labels as well. If you do have a bit glue that seeps through the fabric you can easily clean it up. Wait till the glue dries and use a spray bottle set to mist, spray the spot, brush it up with a toothe brush, dab with a cloth or vaccuum the area, and watch the glue dissapear.I use plastic spackel knifes and plumbers flux brushes to spread the glue and another knife to press the fabric. Good luck.

To Sharpsrifle,

If you are looking for actual hide glue, you can try any major lumber yard or hardware center. Ace Hardware carries it out our way, as made by 'Titebond', and you'll likely find it from other glue manufacturers as well. If not on the shelf, ask them to order it......and get the quart as it will save you some money over buying the smaller 8 oz. squeeze bottles.

Robt.

Mr. Harris had hit the hap'nny nail squarely on its crown. Forget hide glue - it stinks to high heavens, is a nightmare to get to original consistency unless hermetically sealed and temperature-controlled stored. Elmer's white glue is OK but too runny to suit me. The best stuff I've found yet is Alene's Tacky Glue, sold in nearly all first-line fabric stores and most chain specialty arts & craft stores like Total Crafts, Frames for You, U-be Frames, etc., you get the idea. Comes in small (4-oz.) burnt-orange colored tubes with a white needle-nose spout top. It has perfect consistency to work over time; stays gummy but won't run unless you over-apply, very easy to clean up and actuallly does DRY CLEAR, which a lot of that stuff so-advertized does not. Only consideration is that it is water soluble, so think about what application you are going for (e.g, exterior components to a gunslip, etc.). Don't even go near synthetics - they are like dealing with roofing cement. If you make a mistake on a wooden case lining and try to take the fabric up, those things will actually lift the wood fibers! Worst job I ever took on was - I swear - a Loius Vuitton trunk case for a SxS Greener Empire 12 ga. I actually had to use a wire cone brush on a power drill to claw out the old pukey-green lining which had been glued down with synthetics. I've done a lot of them but that was the worst! KBM