doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Slacum Oil Recipe

Hey folks,

I have seen a recipe for Slacum oil posted several times and one of the ingredients called for is "200 gr of Carnauba Wax." "Gr" can represent Grains or Grams, can anyone fill me in on which it is? It works out to be a significant difference (0.45 ounce v. 7.05 ounces). Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

I tried that recipe the day before yesterday. From my results I would try the grains first, as mine when it cooled became a solid. Thanks for pointing that out as I was wondering what in heck I did wrong.
Steve

I see, that could be a problem Thanks for the help Steve!

I had somewhat assumed grains, just because grams would put the wax content at nearly half the whole recipe. But still I just wasn't sure because Grains is a relatively obscure unit of measure... Except in the gun community I suppose.

I'll let you know how mine turns out, I ordered my supplies today! Jerrysartarama.com ended up carrying almost all the ingredients for the slacum recipe.

Did you ever get a chance to try the Salopian Recipe?

I tried that first. The plaster of paris I used would not mix at all. I could not find dental quality though. I had to strain it out. I still have enough product to try again using less wax. I think I'll give that a go this morning.
Steve

SKB

Go to any dental denture lab and they will have the plaster that you need. It is not that expensive but we get it in 35 gal. drums which is just a little more than you need. It is used in making dentures. Very fine grain and very uniform size.

As indicated above the correct amount is 200 grains. FYI...gr = grains; g = grams.

Lately, I have experimented with substituting Ren Wax for carnuba. I think I like the Ren Wax a little better; it doesn't seem to cloud as much as (Mother's pure) carnuba.

Have fun!

Phil

Sorry, but would like recipe if possible(can't find post for it)Thanks Bob

At the time of Dig Hadoke's revelation of his recipe for slacum, there was much talk of tracking down carnuba wax. Flake form is available from The Original Milk Paint CO. in PA. It isn't particularly cheap but 200 gr. isn't much as you scale pan adepts realize. One small bag would make up a quantity to last a lifetime. Haven't tried the plaster grain filler.

jack

Originally Posted By: Salopian (Peter Harris)
July 07, 2006 05:16 AM


The oil is sometimes known in the trade as 'slacum' and it is a mixture of a number of ingrdients, recipes vary a little but it is basically turpentine and linseed oil.

Here is one recipe if you want to make it yourself:

Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers. Simmer for ten minutes then allow to cool.
Be careful it does not catch fire -!!!!


However, Napier produces a ready-mixed formula in a neat little box with all the odds and ends to get you started. These kits are available at gun shops and save a lot of mess and smell. I find the Napier bottled oil works very well if used properly.

First prepare the wood - as with any job, the preparation will govern the finished result, so go back to the bare wood, restore the shapes and angles if need be and raise or fill any dents or gouges.

Apply red-oil (turpentine & bolied linseed oil in which alkanet root has been steeped.

When the colour is right, it depends on the wood how many coats this will take.Apply two coats of finishing oil with the palm of the hand sparingly – it will be absorbed. Remove any excess gently with fine wire wool, buff with a lint-free cloth (not a woven one) and then leave for two days before you apply a clear grain-filler, allow it to dry thoroughly and then rub it gently with fine wire wool.

Now begin the finish – this must be built up gradually in VERY thin layers. Rub the finishing oil in with the palm; use half as much as the minimum you think necessary. Do not leave any sticky residue on the wood, rub the oil into the wood until you feel it get hot in your hand. Leave a day between each coat and expect the process to take four or five weeks before it is finished. The results are surprising and pleasing, making all that work worthwhile.

Don't be afraid to cut the finish back with a little oil on a pad of fine wire woolwhen necessary - even half way throuh the process. This will ensure that the finish is smooth and it flattens out any indents where the grain may show. You want the finish to be smooth, flat and even.


Unfortunately, I do not believe you can easily find Napier in the US. However you can find slacum oil as part of the Purdey Warthog kit: http://www.jeffsoutfitters.com/store.aspx?panel=3&productid=176&categoryid=1

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I can't find the Dig Hadoke recipe with plaster at the moment. I have only used Peter's although I cut the proportions of everything but the carnauba in half. "Simmer" doesn't mean a roiling boil but it does mean hot enuf to produce a few small bubbles rising. The other "exotic", Venice turps, is available from farrier suppliers and some retail stores catering to the nag trade. As with most of this stuff, get the "pure" version rather than an adulterated or improved preparation.

jack

Here is the topic thread containing both recipes:

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbt...e=0&fpart=1